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Coastal Morphology

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Coastal morphology is the study of the shape, structure, and features of coastlines and their dynamic processes. It examines the interactions between landforms, sediment transport, and marine influences, focusing on how these elements evolve over time due to natural and anthropogenic factors.
lightbulbAbout this topic
Coastal morphology is the study of the shape, structure, and features of coastlines and their dynamic processes. It examines the interactions between landforms, sediment transport, and marine influences, focusing on how these elements evolve over time due to natural and anthropogenic factors.

Key research themes

1. How do sediment transport dynamics interact with coastal morphology to influence foredune formation and growth?

This research area focuses on the coupling of aeolian sediment transport, vegetation growth, and hydrodynamic forcing in shaping coastal foredunes and foredune sequences. Understanding sediment supply paths, transport efficacy, and vegetation's role in sediment trapping is crucial for predicting foredune development and resilience under varying climatic and boundary conditions.

Key finding: Developed an integral numerical model coupling aeolian sediment transport (via cellular automata) and subaqueous sediment budget to successfully simulate 61 years of foredune morphogenesis on a barrier coast. The study... Read more
Key finding: Demonstrated that coastline orientation controls potential aeolian sand transport rates and foredune sediment budgets. In two sites 4.2 km apart with a 20° difference in orientation, landward sand transport dominated at one... Read more
Key finding: Linked observed coastal landform changes such as dune toe retreat, washover fan accretion, and gravel beach formation to local wind-wave conditions and net longshore sediment transport direction. The study utilized a... Read more
Key finding: Identified mesoscale rotational sediment exchanges between the ends of a macrotidal embayed beach, evidenced through statistically significant opposing volume changes in subaerial and intertidal zones over a 17-year period.... Read more
Key finding: Developed a classification framework for 212 Southeast Asian headland-bay beaches based on sediment supply and equilibrium stability. Demonstrated that dynamic bays requiring sediment supply are highly sensitive to low supply... Read more

2. What are the spatial-temporal patterns and morphodynamic controls governing alongshore rhythmic coastal features such as beach cusps, bars, and sand ridges?

This theme investigates the formation, maintenance, and evolution of coastal morphological patterns exhibiting alongshore periodicity—such as beach cusps, transverse and crescentic bars, and shoreface-connected sand ridges—emphasizing sediment concentration and transport processes modulated by waves and currents. Understanding these rhythmic features informs sediment budget assessments, coastal stability analyses, and morphodynamic modeling approaches.

Key finding: Reviewed and synthesized a methodology utilizing depth-averaged sediment concentration (DASC) as a key parameter to elucidate the alongshore rhythmic formation of morphodynamic patterns such as beach cusps, surf zone bars,... Read more
Key finding: Utilized morphodynamic indices (fall velocity parameter, relative tide range) combined with wave and sediment data to classify Aksa Beach as an intermediate state with a low tide bar and rip current system. Demonstrated that... Read more
Key finding: Established an inverse nonlinear relationship between shoreline variability (derived from multi-year Sentinel-2 remote sensing data) and sediment grain size on microtidal Mediterranean beaches. Finer sands were associated... Read more
Key finding: Presented a comprehensive decade-long, multi-parameter dataset including topobathymetry, wave climate, shoreline imagery, sediment size, and meteorological forcing at Cala Millor, a carbonate sandy microtidal beach. The... Read more
Key finding: Demonstrated high intra-annual shoreline variability (up to 8 m cross-shore change) over a 10-month monitoring period on a natural perched urban beach in Crete fronted by a heterogeneous beachrock reef. Differential wave... Read more

3. How can numerical modeling and integrated simulation tools improve prediction and management of coastal morphological evolution under natural and anthropogenic influences?

This research theme investigates the development, calibration, and application of numerical and process-based models that simulate coastal morphodynamics including sediment transport, hydrodynamics, and shoreline response. Improved models inform coastal risk assessment, optimize engineering interventions such as shoreface nourishments and coastal defenses, and predict medium-to-long-term morphological changes influenced by climate change, sea level rise, and human activities.

Key finding: Developed the COMOR modelling system, a modular framework that integrates waves, currents, sediment transport, and bottom morphology computations into compound models capable of simulating two-dimensional coastal... Read more
Key finding: Applied the integrated MIKE 21 modeling suite (wave, hydrodynamic, and sand transport modules) to simulate morphological changes of Arklow Bank over tidal and wave forcing scenarios using probabilistic representations of... Read more
Key finding: Presented monitoring results of the largest shoreface nourishment in Portugal, using high-resolution coastal monitoring data combined with sediment budget analyses. Showed that post-nourishment sediment redistribution varied... Read more
Key finding: Calibrated and validated the XBeach model in nonlinear, non-hydrostatic mode to simulate hydrodynamic and morphologic responses of a Portuguese urban beach protected by a combined groyne field and a dune-seawall backshore... Read more
Key finding: Provided a comprehensive framework and empirical methods for mapping, monitoring, and spatially analyzing diverse coastal environments using geospatial technologies including remote sensing, GIS and spatial statistics.... Read more

All papers in Coastal Morphology

Tese de doutoramento, Ciencias do Mar, da Terra e do Ambiente (Dinâmica Litoral), Faculdade de Ciencias e Tecnologia, Universidade do Algarve, 2015
Long-term prediction of sediment transport and of morphological behaviour in the coastal zone, in response to human interference or to change in environmental conditions (collectively global change) is an increasingly important issue in... more
This article has been adapted from the paper that won the IADC Young Author 2016 Award and it was published in the proceedings of IX PIANC-COPEDEC conference in October 2016. It is reprinted here with permission. An integrated analytical... more
The WG deals with the legend for the coastal areas, focusing its work on marine, lagoon and aeolian landforms, processes and deposits. In particular, the legend aims to classify coastal landforms in order to contribute to hazard and risk... more
The rich geological heritage of India includes ancient rock formations, unique landscapes, and fossils. Past climate variations have shaped these sites over millions of years. Understanding these evolutions evolution provides valuable... more
Approximately 4.1 million people live in the three coastal states of the Yucatan Peninsula: Quintana Roo, Yucatan, and Campeche. With poverty far from eliminated, and economic development opportunities beckoning in agriculture,... more
The WG deals with the legend for the coastal areas, focusing its work on marine, lagoon and aeolian landforms, processes and deposits. In particular, the legend aims to classify coastal landforms in order to contribute to hazard and risk... more
In the framework of the revision of Italian geomorphological legend (CARG Project) published in 1994 by the National Geological Service, the AIGeo-Working Group Coastal Morphodynamic (WGCM) dealt with the revision of the legend concerning... more
Background: Harbors provide shelter for vessels, whereas ports facilitate the docking of ships that transport passengers and cargo (Jellett 2024). The Port of Durban relies on steel sheet piles to protect quay walls from rising sea level... more
Connexions entre le Rhône et son delta (partie 1) : évolution du trait de côte du delta du Rhône depuis le milieu du XIX e siècle Connections between the Rhône River and its delta (part 1): changes in the Rhône delta coastline since the... more
Storms are one of the phenomena determining the short-term evolution of coasts by influencing the erosion and accretion patterns of the beaches. Some severe storms could cause loss of beach sediments, partial or complete destruction of... more
The WG deals with the legend for the coastal areas, focusing its work on marine, lagoon and aeolian landforms, processes and deposits. In particular, the legend aims to classify coastal landforms in order to contribute to hazard and risk... more
Public reporting burden for this collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instructions, searching existing data sources, gathering and maintaining the data needed, and... more
The development of a flexible operational system providing warning of a potential morphological storm impact requires a preliminary assessment if a given wave regime may produce considerable changes in the coastal system. This study aims... more
Storms are one of the phenomena determining the short-term evolution of coasts by influencing the erosion and accretion patterns of the beaches. Some severe storms could cause loss of beach sediments, partial or complete destruction of... more
Coastal zone is among the fastest evolving areas worldwide. Ever increasing population inhabiting coastal settlements develops often conflicting economic and societal activities. The existing imbalance between the expansion of these... more
In the framework of the revision of Italian geomorphological legend (CARG Project) published in 1994 by the National Geological Service, the AIGeo-Working Group Coastal Morphodynamic (WGCM) dealt with the revision of the legend concerning... more
This study was conducted within the framework of the "Coastal Morphodynamics" Working Group (WG) of the Italian Association of Physical Geography and Geomorphology (AIGeo), according to the Institute for the Protection and Environmental... more
The Antarctic outer coastal margin (i.e., the coastline itself, or the terminus/front of ice shelves, whichever is adjacent to the ocean) is a key interface between the ice-sheet and terrestrial environments and the Southern Ocean. Its... more
This study was conducted within the framework of the "Coastal Morphodynamics" Working Group (WG) of the Italian Association of Physical Geography and Geomorphology (AIGeo), according to the Institute for the Protection and Environmental... more
The increasing rates of sea level rise caused by global warming within the 21st century are expected to exacerbate inundation and episodic flooding tide in low-lying coastal environments. This development threatens both human development... more
Storms are one of the phenomena determining the short-term evolution of the coasts. Certain storm conditions can cause severe beach erosion, partial or complete destruction of coastal structures and human life and occupation. The majority... more
With a population of 245,000 spread mostly over six groups of islands and a total land area of 12,189 km 2 , Vanuatu is one of the larger Pacific Island countries. Compared to other Pacific Island countries of similar or larger size,... more
Parameters to Assess Natural, Living, and Hardened Shorelines along the Northern Gulf of Mexico. This article is base on the assessment of six different coastline sites, all containing a natural, living, and hardened shoreline across two... more
Numerical modelling of hydrodynamic and morphodynamic response of a meso-tidal estuary inlet to the impacts of global climate variabilities. Margo (2018),
The nature of human activities has remain that one thing will always complement the other. Today the world is moving so fast and but the maritime industry from issue of cybernation of ship to environmental has been quite at low frequency... more
Favignana island is a historical and environmental attraction site frequented by tourists during the long warm season of the year. For several centuries the calcareous sandstone outcropping in the east side of the island has been... more
Favignana island is a historical and environmental attraction site frequented by tourists during the long warm season of the year. For several centuries the calcareous sandstone outcropping in the east side of the island has been... more
The responses of marsh elevation in four National Parks affected by Hurricane Sandy were examined using empirical data from surface elevation tables (SET) and modeling. The parks examined were Fire Island National Seashore and Gateway... more
The challenges associated with managing systems of shallow coastal lagoons along a rapidly evolving coastline are illustrated in a case study of small lagoon systems in Ghana where these important structures are relied on by a range of... more
This study was conducted within the framework of the "Coastal Morphodynamics" Working Group (WG) of the Italian Association of Physical Geography and Geomorphology (AIGeo), according to the Institute for the Protection and Environmental... more
This study was conducted within the framework of the "Coastal Morphodynamics" Working Group (WG) of the Italian Association of Physical Geography and Geomorphology (AIGeo), according to the Institute for the Protection and Environmental... more
Genesis and morphological evolution of coastal talus-platforms (fajãs) with lagoons: the case study of the newly-formed Fajã dos Milagres
Abstract: The increasing rates of sea level rise caused by global warming within the 21st century are expected to exacerbate inundation and episodic flooding tide in low-lying coastal environments. This development threatens both human... more
The increasing rates of sea level rise caused by global warming within the 21st century are expected to exacerbate inundation and episodic flooding tide in low-lying coastal environments. This development threatens both human development... more
Global climate change drives sea level rise and changes to extreme weather events, which can affect morphodynamics of coastal and estuary systems around the world. In this paper, a 2D process-based numerical model is used to investigate... more
Sea level rise constitutes a serious threat to countries whose coastal areas have high population densities. However, it should be noted that sea-level rise is not the only cause of increased vulnerability. Other factors, such as storms,... more
Global climate change over the 21 st century will result in rising sea levels, rising ocean temperatures, and may intensify and cluster atmospheric events such as storm surges, storm waves, and river flows. As such, climate change will... more
This study was conducted within the framework of the "Coastal Morphodynamics" Working Group (WG) of the Italian Association of Physical Geography and Geomorphology (AIGeo), according to the Institute for the Protection and Environmental... more
We use the results of a one-dimensional morphodynamic model and the basis of the "Lagrangian equilibrium state" (Maan et al., 2015, https://doi.org/10.1002/2014JF003311) to derive a quantitative relationship between the progradation speed... more
Abstract. This research aims to explore coastline alterations and changes to the beaches of Varna Bay, North Bulgarian Black Sea coast, between 1908 and 2007. A large number of different types of port and coast-protection structures have... more
Coastal morphological changes are of increasing concern today. Among the studied aspects are the effects of climate change and sea level trends (IPCC, 2013); coastal variability (Morton et al., 2005); coastal hazards (Froede, 2006;... more
Sea level rise constitutes a serious threat to countries whose coastal areas have high population densities. However, it should be noted that sea-level rise is not the only cause of increased vulnerability. Other factors, such as storms,... more
The Defense Coastal/Estuarine Research Program (DCERP) was a 10-year multi-investigator project funded by the Department of Defense to improve understanding of ecosystem processes and their interactions with natural and anthropogenic... more
A number of techniques for non-linear analysis of time series data have been developed in recent years and applied in many environmental sciences. In this paper, some of these techniques are reviewed and their usefulness for coastal... more
Estimates of future beach evolution in response to sea-level rise are needed to assess coastal vulnerability. A research gap is identified in providing adequate predictive methods to use for platform beaches. This work describes a simple... more
This study was conducted within the framework of the "Coastal Morphodynamics" Working Group (WG) of the Italian Association of Physical Geography and Geomorphology (AIGeo), according to the Institute for the Protection and Environmental... more
Chittagong Port is the main port Bangladesh which handles almost 95 percent of the export-import of the county. Besides Bangladesh, it is also used by its neighboring countries, Nepal, Bhutan and India and makes it the second busiest port... more
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