The word ‘Batua’ comes from Hindi language, and it means a small bag of leather or cloth which ha... more The word ‘Batua’ comes from Hindi language, and it means a small bag of leather or cloth which has partitions on its inner side. One such craft related to the humble batua is the ‘Batua- making’ craft of Bhopal. A ‘Bhopali batua’ is a small purse adorned with zardozi and bead work and was used for keeping paan (beetle leaves), laung (cloves), itar (perfume) and other fragrant material by the royals and subsequently by the locals of Bhopal. Legends associate the development of batua making craft at Bhopal to the begums of Bhopal. A series of steps are taken to complete batuas and involve embroiderers, tailors, and helpers. These are delicately adorned with zardozi, bead work or a combination of both. The steps include layout, design transfer, embroidery, setting and stitching, putting the dori and finishing. Bhopali batua, zardozi and beadwork embody the cultural heritage and tradition of Bhopal. In olden times Bhopal was a prominent Zardozi center along with Delhi, Hyderabad, Luckno...
The visual language and narrative of a traditional embroidery is par excellence . It carries with... more The visual language and narrative of a traditional embroidery is par excellence . It carries with it folklores which have transcended from generation to generation with its exquisiteness. One such embroidery is of the Lambanis or the Banjaras, also referred to as the Indian Gypsies. Their embroidery connotes a semiotic system for communicating and interpreting various colours, patterns, stitches, surface embellishments and it has within it a hidden language that is made up of a collection of cultural symbols that communicate on various social and psychological levels.Embroidery is a complete language connoting a semiotic system for communicating and interpreting various colours, patterns, stitches, surface embellishments. The Lambanis have inherited a rich folk tradition of embroidery with exquisite patterns and a voluminous stitch vocabulary. The surface additives added to their embroidery incorporate myriad elements like the mirror(shisha), shells(cowries), beads, applique work, r...
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style:normal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-ansi-language:EN-GB;mso-fareast-language: EN-IN;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA" lang="EN-GB">Namda</span></i><span style="font-size:1...
409-415India’s rural arts and handicrafts are the visual expression and technological processes o... more 409-415India’s rural arts and handicrafts are the visual expression and technological processes of people living at several cultural, religious and social levels. For centuries Indian arts and crafts have been distinguished for their great aesthetic and functional value. The Indian handicrafts industry is highly labor intensive cottage based industry and de-centralized, being spread all over the country in rural and urban areas. One such traditional craft called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">Namda is produced since ages in the state of Rajasthan which is famous throughout the world for its profile art treasures, for its scenic beauty and bracing climate so also for its crafts. The present study was an attempt to study the traditional Namda craft of Rajasthan. Efforts were directed towards documenting the traditional Namda art of Tonk and to highlight its unique characteristics with respect to methods, materials, implements, raw materials and surface ornament...
Traditional textiles and costumes of <i style="">Karbi</i> and <i style="">Biate</i> tribes of Meghalaya
309-316The present study was an attempt to study the tribal textiles and costumes of Meghalaya wh... more 309-316The present study was an attempt to study the tribal textiles and costumes of Meghalaya which was almost non-existent and has reached the verge of extinction in the name of change. The objectives of the study were to document the yarns, looms, colors, motifs and costumes worn for different occasions. Data was gathered through personal interviews coupled with observation method from purposive selected samples and photographs were taken to support the study. Weaving of these two tribes was the monopoly of women. They wove their dress by themselves on the loom which they set up in their dwelling house. The study revealed that there have been certain changes in the traditional textiles and costumes in terms of yarns, colours and motifs used
The versatile draped silhouettes & heritage craft traditions redefined for contemporary connoisse... more The versatile draped silhouettes & heritage craft traditions redefined for contemporary connoisseurs; have further led to the rising acceptance of Indian ethnic/ fusion fashion as a paradigm shift for India to discern and emphasize local inimitability, to create a sense of belonging and stimulate consumption of a culturally promoted "Global-Desi" fashion dictum across cultures. This paper presents the study of major factors contributing to the Indian fashion system interpreting its engagement with the Indian society and also the world. This research highlights impact of the Indian Fashion system on the Indian society and its meaning. There is continued interest for classical Indian dress silhouettes, heritage textile crafts, accessories; this study concentrates on outcomes through the lens of history, culture, and sociology of fashion. The neue urban tribes and fashion social movements in the post-modern era led emergence of the apparel category-occasion wear; reserved for...
Walnut Dye for Wool and Silk and Development of a Color Palette for a
India was a fore – runner in art of natural dyeing, an art perfected during the era of the great ... more India was a fore – runner in art of natural dyeing, an art perfected during the era of the great Epics. It was known as a leading source of the earliest natural dyes and still continues to be one of the imminent producers of the same and enjoys its place as a land with a rich cultural heritage of traditional crafts. One such craft perfected in India is the fabric tie- dye technique known as Bandhani and Leheriya. Bandhani as it is popularly known in India comes from the Hindi word which means tying to give a dotted pattern and Leheriya means tying of fabric diagonally to produce a stripe pattern and is mostly done in the Western states of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Traditionally tie and dye was done employing natural dyes. But with the advent of synthetic dyes, tie and dye with natural dyes were found to be losing their grounds. However, with the present trend being “back to nature”, natural dyes are now in vogue. Persian or English Walnut (Juglone Regia) is native to the Himalayan belt...
Chitosan has been used in combination with citric acid and silicon softener to impart antimicrobi... more Chitosan has been used in combination with citric acid and silicon softener to impart antimicrobial and fragrance finish with two different application techniques. It is observed that the finish provides better functionality to the fabric as it shows good performance and improvement in physical properties. The finish shows good fastness to washing as well as perspiration. The use of carboxylic acid also improves the affinity of chitosan for cellulose.
A Comparative Study on The Effect of Chemical & Enzyme Treatments on the Softening of Sisal Fiber
International journal of scientific research, 2016
For thousands of years, natural fibers have been at the core of the textile industry. Minor fiber... more For thousands of years, natural fibers have been at the core of the textile industry. Minor fibers like flax, jute, banana, sisal, ramie and many other vegetable fibers have been used for more than 8,000 years. Sisal fiber is exceptionally durable with a low maintenance with minimal wear and tear, recyclable, anti-static, does not attract or trap dust particles and exhibits good sound and impact absorbing properties. Though it has strength but also have high stiffness, low cohesiveness which creates problems during end use. So the main purpose of the study was to soften sisal fiber with chemical and enzyme treatment and prepare woven samples from treated fibers. Four different enzymes namely Laccase, Cellulase, Hemicellulase and Pectinase were used to soften the fibers. Enzyme and chemical recipe was standardized for treating fibers. Treated fibers were tested for weight loss, strength, whiteness, SEM, fiber fineness and chemical composition and fibers were spun into yarns on Medler...
International journal of scientific research, 2016
Maharajas are always known for their lavishness, jewels, big palaces, wealth and their outstandin... more Maharajas are always known for their lavishness, jewels, big palaces, wealth and their outstanding bold attire. This research was conducted on one such Maharaja of Baroda state who was the eighth richest during his time. The researcher found it interesting to note that the design pattern and constructional details were looked into profoundly. The style and fashion undoubtedly is followed since time unknown. The main objective of the research was to study the garment constructional details of the Maharaja’s costume which he wore differently on different occasions. It was revealed that two main garment styles most commonly worn by the Maharaja were Achkan and Angarakha with very interesting cuts and details which were made in ponderous textiles like kinkhabs , brocades, fine pellucid chanderi. Angarakha was with a double breasted pattern with kalis which gave a flair to the garment and was worn on occasions like darbar , casual meetings etc. Achkan on another part was very formal wear...
International journal of scientific research, 2016
Tales of queen their beauty and their meticulous clothing has always been a delightful topic to t... more Tales of queen their beauty and their meticulous clothing has always been a delightful topic to talk about. Their way of living, the conjunctures have always seemed so interesting to be acquainted with. The researcher felt a need to document this spectacular, mystical at the same time glorious assortment of Maharani’s (Queen) of Baroda State costumes. The objective of the research was to study the garment’s constructional details, its cuts, style, pattern and the construction of all these in a perfect contemporized fit. On studying the details it was revealed that Maharanis mostly wore a nine yard saree which was draped in a typical style with a blouse always of hip length made in brocade and chanderi tissue. Chanderi was mostly used on sleeves to give a sheer look, it added to the overall aesthetic value of the garment. The Maharani’s costumes which she wore on different occasions were studied carefully and it was observed that the blouses she wore were of very interesting patterns...
International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology, 2017
Batik is one of the world's oldest living crafts and art forms. It has survived so long, adapting... more Batik is one of the world's oldest living crafts and art forms. It has survived so long, adapting and evolving along the way, and still is made in many parts of the world, by both traditional and contemporary means and suggests, it has some wisdom to yield about sustainability. Batik work is limited, mainly in Naphthol colour and partly in solubilized vat dye; it is applied to the fabric in cold condition. The excellence of batik word is, its natural creation of crack design with the help of wax, which is a good resisting material. Batik with natural colour is not practically possible, with the exhaust dyeing method. In this work, an attempt has been taken for batik work, with natural colour, which has a huge demand. This inspired the research to dye silk fabric with batik technique, using a combination of dyes namely: Indian Madder and Turmeric; Indian Madder and Marigold Petals; Turmeric and Marigold Petals. The composite dyes, mostly shade of yellow to red. Six cushion covers were prepared with the different techniques, mordants and dyes, and a preference for the colour combination and the batik effect were taken. It was said that, the samples were very impressive and a very good batik effect was produced by natural dyes. They also said that, it was a very good idea for reducing the environmental pollution. The study was very innovative and could be used for further researches.
Since hundreds year ago, the application of natural dyes on batik is unique procedure to obtain s... more Since hundreds year ago, the application of natural dyes on batik is unique procedure to obtain special fabrics and colour. Today, this technique is gaining popularity all over the world, because of the increased awareness on environmental, ecological aspects, and pollution control. In this research, extraction of dyes from wood of Morinda citrifolia using simple precipitation assisted brine solution has been investigated. The color components extracted and isolated from Morinda citrifolia plant were characterized by Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC), IR techniques and reflectance methods. The natural dye extract obtained from the Morinda citrifolia was used for the dyeing of cotton fabrics. The results indicated that the extracted dye increase significant improvement in fabrics colour. The treated fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity Gram-positive bacteria Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus).
India's rural arts and handicrafts are the visual expression and technological processes of peopl... more India's rural arts and handicrafts are the visual expression and technological processes of people living at several cultural, religious and social levels. For centuries Indian arts and crafts have been distinguished for their great aesthetic and functional value. The Indian handicrafts industry is highly labor intensive cottage based industry and decentralized , being spread all over the country in rural and urban areas. One such traditional craft called Namda is produced since ages in the state of Rajasthan which is famous throughout the world for its profile art treasures, for its scenic beauty and bracing climate so also for its crafts. The present study was an attempt to study the traditional Namda craft of Rajasthan. Efforts were directed towards documenting the traditional Namda art of Tonk and to highlight its unique characteristics with respect to methods, materials, implements, raw materials and surface ornamentation techniques employed. Concern was also given towards reflecting the present scenario of this handicraft industry. Another major objective was to study the socioeconomic profile of the craftsmen involved in the craft. Detailed emphasis was also laid on studying the changes that have intruded in the contemporary production practices of this felted rug.
The present study was an attempt to study the tribal textiles and costumes of Meghalaya which was... more The present study was an attempt to study the tribal textiles and costumes of Meghalaya which was almost non-existent and has reached the verge of extinction in the name of change. The objectives of the study were to document the yarns, looms, colors, motifs and costumes worn for different occasions. Data was gathered through personal interviews coupled with observation method from purposive selected samples and photographs were taken to support the study. Weaving of these two tribes was the monopoly of women. They wove their dress by themselves on the loom which they set up in their dwelling house. The study revealed that there have been certain changes in the traditional textiles and costumes in terms of yarns, colours and motifs used.
Journal of emerging technologies and innovative research, 2018
Our country has a vision of uplifting the status of women and utilization of natural minor fibers... more Our country has a vision of uplifting the status of women and utilization of natural minor fibers. Women have an inbuilt skill of utilizing and management of the resources. The only need is to impart knowledge, motivate them in right direction and having easy working strategy which will provide better standard of living. On the other hand natural fibers are abundantly available in our country and can be used for various applications. These fibers have their own characteristics with which a need of research to increase its commercial use is an urge. Both the ideas when combined will definitely bring change in the status of women’s in our society and the economic change will also been seen in our country. Hence the main thrust of the research is to provide a commercial channel wherein the consumption of minor for technical textiles, majorly management by the women’s.
Owing to environmental concern, it is imperative to utilize natural resources. Banana fibers, one... more Owing to environmental concern, it is imperative to utilize natural resources. Banana fibers, one of the minor cellulosic fibers are obtained from the pseudostem of banana plant. The pseudostems are normally discarded as biomass after harvesting the fruit. Banana fibers are potential textile fibers due to their excellent strength and lustre, however lacks spin ability due to stiffness. Lignin present in the bast fibers is one of the reasons that add to stiffness. Hence the present study is about softening banana fibers using enzymes. Four different enzymes were applied individually to optimize the concentration and conditions and a final treatment was standardized in combinations. The order of application of enzyme treatment as combination was also studied. Accordingly this paper also discusses the development towards the sequential and simultaneous mixed enzyme systems to accomplish softness.
International journal of scientific research, 2016
Banana is the second most important food crop grown in India. Every year around a billion tonnes ... more Banana is the second most important food crop grown in India. Every year around a billion tonnes of banana plant stems are thrown on roadside after harvesting of the fruit. Banana fibers are extracted from this roadside thrown biomass using Raspador machine. Being lignocellulosic in nature, banana fibers have excellent strength but are little brittle. Processing can improve certain properties of any textile fiber. Banana fibers are lustrous fiber, ranging from creamy to off-white in colour. The present study focusedon optimization of bleaching recipe for banana fibers. Sodium hypochlorite, Hydrogen peroxide, and a combination of the two bleacheswere studied by varying time, temperature, and concentration. Based on the testing results of tensile strength, whiteness index, and weight loss, bleaching parameters were optimized. The best results were obtained by the combination of hypochlorite and peroxide bleach.
Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology, 2017
1% add-on+commercial soil-release finishes; O C , acacia catechu dyed at 4% shade+carboxymethyl c... more 1% add-on+commercial soil-release finishes; O C , acacia catechu dyed at 4% shade+carboxymethyl cellulose at 1% add-on; O D , acacia catechu dyed at 4% shade+commercial soil-release finishes Fabric treatments Two UV-absorber finishes i.e. Commercial UV absorber and Acacia catechu (Katha) and two soil-release finishes i.e. Commercial
Processing of Ramie Fiber with Enzymes for Nonwovens
International journal of scientific research, 2015
Ramie is commonly known as china grass, green ramie or rhea. It is referred to as bast fiber. The... more Ramie is commonly known as china grass, green ramie or rhea. It is referred to as bast fiber. The fiber has limited application in textiles due to its high stiffness and less cohesive properties. The aim of the study was to remove noncellulosic gummy materials from the fiber thus softening it and prepare nonwovens through needle punch method. Grey ramie fibres were treated with hemicellulase, pectinase and cellulase enzyme individually by varying its concentration and time. This optimised treatment was further treated with different combination of enzymes, which was later standardised. The effect of enzymes on the fibers was measured in weight loss, strength loss and whiteness index of the fiber. Subjective analyses by touch and feel method, SEM analyses was also done. The best softened fibers were processed for preparation of nonwovens through needle punch method at NIRJAFT, Kolkata
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