Wave Climate

Die deutsche Nordseeküste verfügt über einen ausgeprägten Formenreichtum und ist Teil des größten Wattenmeeres der Welt. Sowohl veränderte Umweltbedingungen in Form des globalen Klimawandels und dem damit einhergehenden Anstieg des mittleren Meeresspiegels als auch die unterschiedlichen anthropogenen Nutzungsanforderungen bedürfen eines vertieften Verständnisses der hydrologischen und morphodynamischen Entwicklung in der Deutschen Bucht. Bathymetrische und sedimentologische Beobachtungs-und Vermessungsdaten stellten über einen sehr langen Zeitraum die Methode zur Analyse und Beschreibung der morphodynamischen Veränderungen an der deutschen Nordseeküste dar. Alternative Verfahren bilden heute prozessbasierte numerische hydro-und morphodynamische Simulationsmodelle. Auch für die Kalibrierung, Validierung und den Betrieb solcher Simulationsmodelle haben Vermessungsund Beobachtungsdaten eine zentrale Bedeutung. Die Verknüpfung von daten-und prozessbasierten Modellansätzen bildete einen Schwerpunkt im KFKI-Verbundprojekt "Aufbau von integrierten Modellsystemen zur Analyse der langfristigen Morphodynamik in der Deutschen Bucht -AufMod" (HEYER & SCHROTTKE 2013). Um die kontinuierlichen Veränderungen des Meeresbodens datenbasiert zu beschreiben, wurden umfangreiche Naturdaten zusammengetragen und ein sogenanntes Funktionales Bodenmodell softwaretechnisch realisiert.

Der Aufbau von integrierten Modellsystemen (AufMod) zur Analyse der langfristigen Morphodynamik in der Deutschen Bucht war Ziel des KFKI-Verbundforschungsvorhabens (Laufzeit: 2009. Auslöser hierfür war eine im Jahr 2008 durchgeführte Ausschreibung des KFKI mit einer detaillierten Anforderungsliste. Im Projekt wurde sehr frühzeitig die Entscheidung getroffen, ein umfassendes softwaregestütztes Bodenmodell zu generieren, das die Daten zur Bathymetrie und Sedimentbeschaffenheit gemeinsam verwaltet und funktional, d. h. nach spezifischen Vorgaben, verarbeiten und dem Anwender anforderungsgerecht zur Verfügung stellen kann (Funktionales Bodenmodell). Die Betrachtung der Sedimentprozesse in der Deutschen Bucht kann nicht ohne die Berücksichtigung der Prozesse in der gesamten Nordsee erfolgen. Deshalb wurden auch umfangreiche Daten der Anrainerstaaten akquiriert und in das Funktionale Bodenmodell übernommen. Die großräumigen und langfristigen Sedimentbewegungen sind auch von lokalen, teilweise zeitlich beschränkten Prozessen beeinflusst. Deshalb fokussierte sich das Funktionale Bodenmodell auf bestimmte Gebiete: den Schelf bzw. das Küstenvorfeld, den Vorstrandbereich, die Bereiche von Inseln und im Wattenmeer. Im Rahmen der Anwendung deterministischer Prozessmodelle wurde ein konsequenter Multi-Modell-Ansatz mit Simulationsmodellen unterschiedlicher Prozessauflösung verwendet, um die Streubreite der Ergebnisse abschätzen zu können. Für die Modelle, welche auf unstrukturierten Modellverfahren basieren, wurden überwiegend identische Gitternetze und Randwerte verwendet. Soweit möglich, wurde auch ein einheitliches Post-Processing durchgeführt, um den Vergleich der Modellergebnisse mit einheitlichen Methoden zu gewährleisten. Abschließend wurde eine gemeinsame Synthese erarbeitet, die alle relevanten Ergebnisse der Teilprojekte einbezieht und eine übergreifende, gemeinsame Bewertung zur Beantwortung der in der KFKI-Ausschreibung formulierten Ziele erstellt.

Coastal zone is among the fastest evolving areas worldwide. Ever increasing population inhabiting coastal settlements develops often conflicting economic and societal activities. The existing imbalance between the expansion of these activities, on one hand, and the potential to accommodate them in a sustainable manner, on the other, becomes a critical problem. Concurrently, coasts are affected by various hydro-meteorological phenomena such as storm surges, heavy seas, strong winds and flash floods, which intensities and occurrence frequency is likely to increase due to the climate change. This implies elaboration of tools capable of quick prediction of impact of those phenomena on the coast and providing solutions in terms of disaster risk reduction measures. One such tool is Bayesian network. Proposed paper describes the set-up of such network for Varna Bay (Bulgaria, Western Black Sea). It relates near-shore storm conditions to their onshore flood potential and ultimately to relevant impact as relative damage on coastal and manmade environment. Methodology for set-up and training of the Bayesian network was developed within RISC-KIT project (Resilience-Increasing Strategies for Coasts -toolKIT). Proposed BN reflects the interaction between boundary conditions, receptors, hazard, and consequences. Storm boundary conditions -maximum significant wave height and peak surge level, were determined on the basis of their historical and projected occurrence. The only hazard considered in this study is flooding characterized by maximum inundation depth. BN was trained with synthetic events created by combining estimated boundary conditions. Flood impact was modeled with the process-based morphodynamical model XBeach. Restaurants, sport and leisure facilities, administrative buildings, and car parks were introduced in the network as receptors. Consequences (impact) are estimated in terms of relative damage caused by given inundation depth. National depth-damage (susceptibility) curves were used to define the percentage of damage ranked as low, moderate, high and very high. Besides previously described components, BN includes also two hazard influencing disaster risk reduction (DRR) measures: re-enforced embankment of Varna Port wall and beach nourishment. As a result of training process the network is able to evaluate spatially varying hazards and damages for specific storm conditions. Moreover, it is able to predict where on the site the highest impact would occur and to quantify the mitigation capacity of proposed DRR measures. For example, it is estimated that storm impact would be considerably reduced in present conditions but vulnerability would be still high in climate change perspective.

The study investigates cross-shore outer sand bar dynamics in an open-coast non-tidal beach at the Bulgarian Black Sea due to wave climate. On seasonal to short-term (1–2 years) time scale, monthly field measurements of the outer bar profiles were related to respective modeled nearshore wave data. Hereby, seaward-shoreward bar migration was examined depending on the wave forcing, wave non-linearity, wave transformation scenarios, storms and direction of wave incidence. Analysis revealed that intra-annually highly non-linear waves were responsible for outer bar displacement, while the direction of migration depended on wave period, duration of conditions with wave steepness >0.04, angle of approach and total duration of storms. Short-term bar evolution was mainly governed by wave height and storms’ parameters as the angle of approach and duration. The correlation between the outer bar location and wave height annual variations initiated the first for the explored Black Sea region ...

Prozessbasierte morphodynamische Simulationsmodelle haben sich in den letzten Jahren zu wichtigen Ingenieurwerkzeugen für die Beurteilung von wasserbaulichen Maßnahmen entwickelt. Sie werden nicht nur zur Analyse zurückliegender Zeiträume eingesetzt, sie sollen auch die Analyse von zukünftigen Veränderungen ermöglichen. Prozessbasierte Simulationsmodelle erlauben insbesondere die systematische Untersuchung von Zusammenhängen, die sich in der Natur der Beobachtung entziehen oder nur mit großem Aufwand zu erfassen sind. In diesem Artikel werden Ergebnisse basierend auf großräumigen morphodynamischen Simulationen mit unterschiedlichen Modellsystemen präsentiert. Der Zeitraum umfasst die Jahre von 1996 bis 2008 und berücksichtigt die treibenden Kräfte von Gezeiten, von Fernwellen, von Oberwasserzuflüssen sowie von Windfeldern und dem daraus generierten Seegang. AufMod stellt jährliche konsistente Bathymetrien und initiale Sedimentdaten bereit, die von den morphodynamischen Modellen für weitere Analysen genutzt werden können. Durch Verwendung möglichst einheitlicher Gitternetze können die Stärken, aber auch die Defizite der unterschiedlichen angewendeten numerischen Modelle herausgearbeitet und bewertet werden. Auf diese Weise ist es möglich, im Rahmen des Multi-Modell-Ansatzes Unsicherheiten der numerischen Modellierung abzuschätzen. Die in diesem Artikel vorgestellten Ergebnisse geben einen ersten skalenübergreifenden Einblick in die Sedimentdynamik und die daraus resultierenden Sedimenttransportpfade in der Deutschen Bucht.

Prozessbasierte morphodynamische Simulationsmodelle haben sich in den letzten Jahren zu wichtigen Ingenieurwerkzeugen für die Beurteilung von wasserbaulichen Maßnahmen entwickelt. Sie werden nicht nur zur Analyse zurückliegender Zeiträume eingesetzt, sie sollen auch die Analyse von zukünftigen Veränderungen ermöglichen. Prozessbasierte Simulationsmodelle erlauben insbesondere die systematische Untersuchung von Zusammenhängen, die sich in der Natur der Beobachtung entziehen oder nur mit großem Aufwand zu erfassen sind. In diesem Artikel werden Ergebnisse basierend auf großräumigen morphodynamischen Simulationen mit unterschiedlichen Modellsystemen präsentiert. Der Zeitraum umfasst die Jahre von 1996 bis 2008 und berücksichtigt die treibenden Kräfte von Gezeiten, von Fernwellen, von Oberwasserzuflüssen sowie von Windfeldern und dem daraus generierten Seegang. AufMod stellt jährliche konsistente Bathymetrien und initiale Sedimentdaten bereit, die von den morphodynamischen Modellen für ...

Storms are one of the most important phenomena producing coastal hazards and endangering human life and activities. In recent decades storm climate has become a subject of increased public awareness and knowledge of this issue can help the society to meet future challenges related to extreme storm manifestation. Therefore, the goal of this study is to assess trends in past and recent storminess in the western Black Sea. The analysis of storm climate is based on a continuous hindcast dataset covering a substantial historical time-span of 63 yr (1948-2010). It was used to create a storm population and to estimate properties describing storminess (proxies). This was done by introduction of criteria allowing separation of events with low probability of occurrence and at the same time keeping the information on their pattern, i.e. properties of storm phases. Eleven storminess proxies were analysed and the most indicative appeared to be storm duration; integral, mean and specific storm wave energy; and wind velocity and direction, which were obtained for each storm season. While experiencing significant variability on a quasidecadal scale, no significant upward or downward trends in storminess were detected. For almost all proxies, an increasing trend until the 1980s or the 1990s and a return to average or even calm conditions in the late 2000s are traceable. On this background, a steady although not significant increase of wind velocity was detected. Results also indicate an alteration of storm pattern, manifested as shortening of storm duration due to a shift of the prevailing direction of storm forcing winds to the north. Nevertheless, incident wave energy in the storms' most intense phase remains significant. The obtained results are discussed with regard to the influence of the North Atlantic Oscillation on the hydrometeorological pattern of the Black Sea region as a part of the European-Atlantic area, in particular with respect to the cyclonic activity.

und Softwarekomponenten einer lokalen Serverarchitektur, mit welchen (Geo-) Daten und Metadaten verwaltet werden (siehe Bild 7). Erstmalig werden neben den flächenhaften Analysen die Ergebnisse aus der HN-Simulation zeitvariant in gerasterter Form für die Deutsche Bucht bereitgestellt. Aufgrund des hohen Datenvolumens von Modelldaten wird der THREDDS Data Server verwendet. Bild 7: Datenmanagement im Strukturknoten der BAW Um die Ergebnisse visuell ansprechend zu gestalten und es dem Nutzer gleichzeitig leichter zu machen, die Daten zu verstehen, wurden für die Produkte aus EasyGSH-DB mehrere Onlineangebote aufgebaut. Alle beschriebenen Wege, die Daten zu nutzen, sind im EasyGSH-DB Datenportal verlinkt, während das EasyGSH-DB-Informationsportal ausführliche Erklärungen dazu bietet. Das Datenportal ist unter www.easygsh-db.org zu erreichen und ist eine Domain-Weiterleitung auf https://mdi-de.baw.de/easygsh/index.html, als Teil der Infrastruktur der BAW. Weiterhin wurde eine Wissensplattform auch sog. Informationsportal (https://easygsh.wb.tuharburg.de/) implementiert, die das relevante (Begleit-) Wissen zum Vorhaben übersichtlich und strukturiert in Form einer Themenlandkarte bereitstellt. Bundesanstalt für Wasserbau ▪ FuE Abschlussbericht "EasyGSH-DB" BAW-Nr. B3955.02.04.70229 ▪ Oktober 2020 13 können trotzdem in unterschiedlichen Systemen zum Einsatz kommen. Verknüpfung durch Metadaten zu Portalen wie der mCLOUD, MDI-DE, GovData und GDI-DE helfen, die Daten auch zukünftig einer großen Nutzergemeinschaft zur Verfügung zu stellen. Die rechtlichen Rahmenbedingungen zur Bereitstellung der Daten konnten durch die Verpflichtung, an die mCLOUD zu liefern, als CC by 4.0 Lizenzen umgesetzt werden. Dadurch sind die Daten als opendata für alle Interessenten frei nutzbar, und nur eine Namensnennung ist verpflichtend.

Revision der Roten Listen: in Arbeit Erarbeitung einer aktualisierten nordseeweiten Übersicht der benthischen Lebensgemeinschaften: in der North Sea Study Group des ICES noch in Arbeit 8 2.2 Datenerhebung 2.2.1 Recherchen nach vorhandenem und neuem externen Datenmaterial Die Recherchen nach älteren vorhandenen, vor allem biologischen Daten wurden abgeschlossen. Das bewertete Datenmaterial über das Zoobenthos wird in Zusammenhang mit den eigenen Erfassungen (in den Jahren 1999 bis 2002) in Kapitel 4 und 5 diskutiert. Allerdings sind v.a. durch Aufträge des BfN neue Ergebnisse vorhanden oder noch in der Bearbeitung, so dass der Auftragnehmer bis Projektende hierzu keine abschließende Gesamtbewertung durchzuführen in der Lage war. Darüber hinaus werden für eine umfassende Gesamtbewertung in Zukunft auch eine ganze Reihe Untersuchungsergebnisse aus Genehmigungsverfahren für Windenergieanlagen und Kiesund Sandabbau zu berücksichtigen sein. Über die Verteilung der Fischfauna werden dem BfN in einem eigenständigen Teilprogramm Daten von der Bundesforschungsanstalt für Fischerei zur Verfügung gestellt. Wir beschränken uns deshalb bei unseren Aussagen im wesentlichen auf die von der Arbeitsgruppe von Dr. R. Knust nach der "Heincke"-Ausfahrt von 2000 zusammengestellten Ergebnisse (u.a. im Kapitel 4.2, Epifauna). Erste Vogelverbreitungsdaten im Gebiet der AWZ wurden durch das Institut für Vogelforschung aufbereitet und dargestellt (bis 2001 über den Auftragnehmer). Inzwischen werden auch hierzu unabhängige, weiterreichende Forschungsarbeiten gesondert durchgeführt (s. www.HabitatMareNatura2000.de). 2.2.2 Erhebung eigener Daten "Heincke"-Ausfahrt 2000 Wie geplant wurde vom 30.5. bis zum 24.6.2000 mit dem Forschungsschiff "Heincke" (Fahrt HE 133) eine großflächige Probennahme vor allem zur Beschreibung des Makrozoobenthos in der AWZ und in angrenzenden Gebieten durchgeführt. Es wurden insgesamt 226 Stationen beprobt, davon 190 mit einem Bodengreifer (van Veen mit 0,1 m 2 Fläche, für Fauna und Sedimente), 67 zusätzlich mit einem Kastengreifer, und an 2 Stationen kam der Großkastengreifer zum Einsatz. Es wurden zudem 78 Baumkurrenhols und 27 Grundschleppnetzfänge durchgeführt (Details s. Fahrtbericht, ANLAGEN 5 und 6). An 164 Stationen wurde routinemäßig eine CTD-Sonde eingesetzt, in ausgewählten Gebieten zusätzlich eine Sauerstoffsonde. Auffällige Schichtungen und Sauerstoffdefizite wurden nicht gefunden. 9 Während der Fahrt konnten bereits auch einige potenzielle Schwerpunktflächen in der östlichen Deutschen Bucht mit einem dichteren Stationsnetz beprobt werden.

Revision der Roten Listen: in Arbeit Erarbeitung einer aktualisierten nordseeweiten Übersicht der benthischen Lebensgemeinschaften: in der North Sea Study Group des ICES noch in Arbeit 8 2.2 Datenerhebung 2.2.1 Recherchen nach vorhandenem und neuem externen Datenmaterial Die Recherchen nach älteren vorhandenen, vor allem biologischen Daten wurden abgeschlossen. Das bewertete Datenmaterial über das Zoobenthos wird in Zusammenhang mit den eigenen Erfassungen (in den Jahren 1999 bis 2002) in Kapitel 4 und 5 diskutiert. Allerdings sind v.a. durch Aufträge des BfN neue Ergebnisse vorhanden oder noch in der Bearbeitung, so dass der Auftragnehmer bis Projektende hierzu keine abschließende Gesamtbewertung durchzuführen in der Lage war. Darüber hinaus werden für eine umfassende Gesamtbewertung in Zukunft auch eine ganze Reihe Untersuchungsergebnisse aus Genehmigungsverfahren für Windenergieanlagen und Kiesund Sandabbau zu berücksichtigen sein. Über die Verteilung der Fischfauna werden dem BfN in einem eigenständigen Teilprogramm Daten von der Bundesforschungsanstalt für Fischerei zur Verfügung gestellt. Wir beschränken uns deshalb bei unseren Aussagen im wesentlichen auf die von der Arbeitsgruppe von Dr. R. Knust nach der "Heincke"-Ausfahrt von 2000 zusammengestellten Ergebnisse (u.a. im Kapitel 4.2, Epifauna). Erste Vogelverbreitungsdaten im Gebiet der AWZ wurden durch das Institut für Vogelforschung aufbereitet und dargestellt (bis 2001 über den Auftragnehmer). Inzwischen werden auch hierzu unabhängige, weiterreichende Forschungsarbeiten gesondert durchgeführt (s. www.HabitatMareNatura2000.de). 2.2.2 Erhebung eigener Daten "Heincke"-Ausfahrt 2000 Wie geplant wurde vom 30.5. bis zum 24.6.2000 mit dem Forschungsschiff "Heincke" (Fahrt HE 133) eine großflächige Probennahme vor allem zur Beschreibung des Makrozoobenthos in der AWZ und in angrenzenden Gebieten durchgeführt. Es wurden insgesamt 226 Stationen beprobt, davon 190 mit einem Bodengreifer (van Veen mit 0,1 m 2 Fläche, für Fauna und Sedimente), 67 zusätzlich mit einem Kastengreifer, und an 2 Stationen kam der Großkastengreifer zum Einsatz. Es wurden zudem 78 Baumkurrenhols und 27 Grundschleppnetzfänge durchgeführt (Details s. Fahrtbericht, ANLAGEN 5 und 6). An 164 Stationen wurde routinemäßig eine CTD-Sonde eingesetzt, in ausgewählten Gebieten zusätzlich eine Sauerstoffsonde. Auffällige Schichtungen und Sauerstoffdefizite wurden nicht gefunden. 9 Während der Fahrt konnten bereits auch einige potenzielle Schwerpunktflächen in der östlichen Deutschen Bucht mit einem dichteren Stationsnetz beprobt werden.

The retreat of deltaic coastlines is a global problem and causes large disruptions in the life of numerous and often large communities. The erosion which causes the shoreline retreat is induced by two types of factors, natural and anthropogenic. The natural factors are related to the evolution of the river system generally causing a decrease of sediments reaching the beaches, to the subsidence resulting from tectonic (eustatic) movements and/or from the compaction of the sediments and to the shifting of the active sedimentation between different distributaries of a delta. The anthropogenic factors are related mainly to the structures in the river and its tributaries (embankments, barrages, etc.) and on the coast (sea defences and harbours). These interventions diminish the volume of sediments reaching the coasts and disturb the natural patterns of coastal sediment circulation. A special factor is accelerated climate change, believed to be a combination of natural evolution and man induced changes, which may cause a larger number or more extreme events and increasing rates of relative sea rise resulting in accelerated coastal erosion. x Abstract developed in this thesis describes a four stage cycle for formation, development and merging with the mainland of a spit formed at a river mouth in this microtidal environment and the spit cycle is regarded as part of the wave-dominated deltaic lobe development. The evolution of a spit strongly depends on the sediment input and the wave energy level. As expected for the future, the sediments volumes reaching the coasts will decrease and the wave energy will increase, the spit's formation and evolution cycles can be different than in the past or even stop. The morphological models formulated in this study explaining and quantifying the processes controlling the Danube Delta coast have a broader range of application. They can be used for similar environments in the northwestern Black Sea: microtidal, abundant sediment supply, wave climate dominated by one direction, and sudden changes in the coast orientation. The general recommendations following from this study refer to mitigating the rate of shoreline retreat affecting especially the Sulina-Sf. Gheorghe sector. Since this retreat is caused largely by a human induced sand deficit, artificial nourishment is suggested to be the most sustainable solution and it can be done using sand dredged from the Sulina canal and sand accumulated just north of this canal. Other recommendations are to avoid interventions which can diminish the volumes of sand reaching the coast and those which might disturb the sediment circulation in the Sahalin spit system. xi SAMENVATTING Het terugtrekken van de kustlijn van delta's is een mondiaal probleem en veroorzaakt grote verstoringen in het leven van talrijke en vaak grote gemeenschappen. De erosie, waardoor de kustlijn zich terugtrekt, wordt veroorzaakt door twee typen factoren: natuurlijke en door de mens veroorzaakte factoren. De natuurlijke factoren zijn gerelateerd aan de evolutie van het riviersysteem door een vermindering van sediment toevoer naar de stranden, door daling van de bodem ten gevolge van tektonische (eustatische) bewegingen, en/of door de compressie van sediment en verschuiving van actieve sedimentatie tussen de verschillende zijtakken van een delta. De door de mens veroorzaakte, ofwel antropogene, factoren zijn voornamelijk gerelateerd aan bouwwerken in rivieren en haar zijtakken (dijken, stuwdammen, enz.) en aan kustbouwwerken (zeeweringen en havens). Deze interventies verminderen het volume van sediment dat de kusten bereikt en verstoren de natuurlijke circulatie van kustsediment. Een bijzondere toegevoegde factor is de verandering van het klimaat die in versneld tempo plaats vindt onder invloed van een combinatie van zowel natuurlijke evolutie als door de mens veroorzaakte veranderingen. Het groot aantal extreme gebeurtenissen en de relatieve zeespiegelstijging hebben een versnelde kusterosie tot gevolg.

We use high-resolution swath-bathymetry data to characterise the morphology of the abandoned subaqueous Sol de Riu delta lobe in the Ebro Delta, Western Mediterranean Sea. This study aims to assess the influence of the delta lobe on present-day coastal dynamics in a micro-tidal environment. Detailed mapping of the relict Sol de Riu lobe revealed set of bedforms interpreted as footprints of human activities: seasonal V-shaped bedforms on the middle shoreface due to boat anchoring and trawking marks of few decades old between 16 and 18 m

The main characteristic of a coastal system is its variability. Many factors are involved in the evolution of the shoreline, which can depend on the weather, on geology, and on the presence or absence of river mouths. They can also depend on the urbanization of the coasts or of the interior areas. In order to prevent coastal erosion, it is necessary to clearly understand the interaction of so many factors. In this regard both geological and historical aspects, experimental and theoretical models have to be considered in order to analyze the extreme variability of the system. This paper is divided into three parts. The first is concerned with the historical variation of the Calabria shoreline, evaluated through cartographic analysis. All data are provided by the Calabria Basin Authority and the analysis is made with GIS software. The first part ends with the identification of the areas characterized by coastal erosion. The second part is concerned with the evaluation of the causes of the erosion and the identification of the best type of intervention. The last part is concerned with the latest approaches to coastal dynamic, in particular Barbaro et al.

This study investigates the seasonal variability of wave characteristics and related morphological indices on the Kaetsu Coast in Ishikawa, Japan based on long-term wave data observed at Kanazawa Port from I 971 to 2012. First, the seasonal variations of wave energy flux are investigated in combination with the directional distribution. Most of the incoming wave energy is concentrated in the winter season, in which high waves from the WNW, NW, and NNW direction frequently impact the coastline. Second, the characteristics of wave breaking in the near shore area, and breaker height and depth, are examined. Re­lated morphological indices such as the closure depth and the Sunamura index are also estimated. The seasonal variations of these properties indicate common patterns, in which the values are highest in winter, medium in spring and autumn, and lowest in summer. The cumulative probability of breaker depths varies significantly from season to season. The estimated closure depth also...

Directional wave spectra in the Colombian Pacific have been observed systematically since 2009 by a network of four buoys owned by the Dirección General Marítima de Colombia. The data consist of estimates of the full 2D spectrum in frequency and direction obtained from the network of Triaxys wave sensors. This network is arranged along the Colombian Pacific coast at Tumaco, Gorgona, Buenaventura, and Solano locations. The buoys have been moored near the edge of the continental shelf, corresponding to water depths of about 130m. Complementary, wind data from nearby meteorological stations, and from the ECMWF model are available. In this study, the analysis emphasizes on parameters of the wave spectrum and on the different wave systems composing the local wave climate. From the analyzed data, four wave systems are clearly observed, two of them with Southwesterly origin and two with Northwesterly origin. The pairs of wave systems with similar directions are distinct because of their different typical peak frequencies, two around 0.07Hz and the other two around 0.16Hz. A fifth wave system is apparent from the data at very low frequencies and Southwesterly directions. However, its typical frequencies are near the lower cutoff limit of the instrument so the error associated to this system is difficult to assess. From the overall statistics we can say that typical wind and wave conditions in the region are found to range from low to moderate, with wave heights on the order of 1m, and wind speeds on the order of 3m/s. Specific meteorological and wave events however, may be of considerable magnitude, with wind speeds above the 10m/s, and wave heights above 2m and mean wave periods above the 15s.

In this paper, we investigate changes in the wave climate of the west-European shelf seas under global warming scenarios. In particular, climate change wind fields corresponding to the present (control) time-slice 1961-2000 and the future (scenario) time-slice 2061-2100 are used to drive a wave generation model to produce equivalent control and scenario wave climate. Yearly and seasonal statistics of the scenario wave climates are compared individually to the corresponding control wave climate to identify relative changes of statistical significance between present and future extreme and prevailing wave heights. Using global, regional and linked globalregional wind forcing over a set of nested computational domains, this paper further demonstrates the sensitivity of the results to the resolution and coverage of the forcing. It suggests that the use of combined forcing from linked global and regional climate models of typical resolution and coverage is a good option for the investigation of relative wave changes in the region of interest of this study. Coarse resolution global forcing alone leads to very similar results over regions that are highly exposed to the Atlantic Ocean. In contrast, fine resolution regional forcing alone is shown to be insufficient for exploring wave climate changes over the western European waters because of its limited coverage. Results obtained with the combined globalregional wind forcing showed some consistency between scenarios. In general, it was shown that mean and extreme wave heights will increase in the future only in winter and only in the southwest of UK and west of France, north of about 44-45°N. Otherwise, wave heights are projected to decrease, especially in summer. Nevertheless, this decrease is dominated by local wind waves whilst swell is found to increase. Only in spring do both swell and local wind waves decrease in average height.

Atoll reef islands primarily consist of unconsolidated sediment, and their ocean-facing shorelines are maintained by sediment produced and transported across their reefs. Changes in incident waves can alter cross-shore sediment exchange and, thus, affect the sediment budget and morphology of atoll reef islands. Here we investigate the influence of sea level rise and projected wave climate change on wave characteristics and cross-shore sediment transport across an atoll reef at Kwajalein Island, Republic of the Marshall Islands. Using a phase-resolving model, we quantify the influence on sediment transport of quantities not well captured by wave-averaged models, namely, wave asymmetry and skewness and flow acceleration. Model results suggest that for current reef geometry, sea level, and wave climate, potential bedload transport is directed onshore, decreases from the fore reef to the beach, and is sensitive to the influence of flow acceleration. We find that a projected 12% decrease in annual wave energy by 2100 CE has negligible influence on reef flat hydrodynamics. However, 0.5-2.0 m of sea level rise increases wave heights, skewness, and shear stress on the reef flat and decreases wave skewness and shear stress on the fore reef. These hydrodynamic changes decrease potential sediment inputs onshore from the fore reef where coral production is greatest but increase potential cross-reef sediment transport from the outer reef flat to the beach. Assuming sediment production on the fore reef remains constant or decreases due to increasing ocean temperatures and acidification, these processes have the potential to decrease net sediment delivery to atoll islands, causing erosion.

Historical trends in the direction and magnitude of ocean surface wave height, period, or direction are debated due to diverse data, time-periods, or methodologies. Using a consistent community-driven ensemble of global wave products, we quantify and establish regions with robust trends in global multivariate wave fields between 1980 and 2014. We find that about 30–40% of the global ocean experienced robust seasonal trends in mean and extreme wave height, period, and direction. Most of the Southern Hemisphere exhibited strong upward-trending wave heights (1–2 cm per year) and periods during winter and summer. Ocean basins with robust positive trends are far larger than those with negative trends. Historical trends calculated over shorter periods generally agree with satellite records but vary from product to product, with some showing a consistently negative bias. Variability in trends across products and time-periods highlights the importance of considering multiple sources when se...

Coastal erosion is due to natural phenomena and anthropogenic interventions that alter the coastal dynamics and the sediment balance. Therefore, to manage the coastal areas and to correctly design the necessary defence interventions, it is necessary to analyze all these factors. Consequently, in recent years the methodologies for the coastal erosion hazard and vulnerability assessment have increasing importance. However, there is currently a lack of a general methodology that considers all the factors that influence the coastal dynamics and, therefore, the hazard and the vulnerability. This paper, through a case study, describes a new methodology based on indices that considers all the factors that influence the hazard and the vulnerability, thus resulting in general validity. This methodology defines two indices of hazard and vulnerability. The hazard index considers all the natural processes that contribute to the phenomenon of coastal erosion, such as tides, currents, average sea level rise due to climate change, wave climate and both coastal and river sediment transport. The vulnerability index, on the other hand, includes all those characteristics of the coast that can make it more or less vulnerable to coastal erosion, such as its geological and morphological characteristics (both of the emerged and submerged part), its evolutionary trend, the presence of dune systems, vegetation and coastal and/or port defence works, the subsidence rates and the degree of waterproofing of the coast. The case study concerns Porticello, a town near the Strait of Messina characterized by a high coastal erosion risk. Porticello represents an interesting case study due to the peculiarities of the Strait of Messina and the presence of numerous coastal structures. The study area extends for about 1.5 km, inside there are numerous coastal structures, two river mouths and numerous houses built close to the shoreline.

This scientific assessment examines changes in three climate extremes—extratropical storms, winds, and waves—with an emphasis on U.S. coastal regions during the cold season. There is moderate evidence of an increase in both extratropical storm frequency and intensity during the cold season in the Northern Hemisphere since 1950, with suggestive evidence of geographic shifts resulting in slight upward trends in offshore/coastal regions. There is also suggestive evidence of an increase in extreme winds (at least annually) over parts of the ocean since the early to mid-1980s, but the evidence over the U.S. land surface is inconclusive. Finally, there is moderate evidence of an increase in extreme waves in winter along the Pacific coast since the 1950s, but along other U.S. shorelines any tendencies are of modest magnitude compared with historical variability. The data for extratropical cyclones are considered to be of relatively high quality for trend detection, whereas the data for ext...

Spatial extremes assessment of geophysical variables represents a complex field largely because of the great variety of existing methodologies employed at different complexity levels, generally making use of multivariate techniques. This manuscript investigates the feasibility of a different approach, namely "Regional Frequency Analysis" (RFA), consisting into dividing the area of study into homogeneous regions whose normalized data are clustered and treated with univariate techniques. RFA is employed to analyse the spatial assessment of extreme significant wave heights within the northeast Atlantic Ocean. This expanse provides the physical basis for the determination of "homogeneous" regions, identified by means of typical storm footprints which allow the clustering of similar extreme events. Furthermore, a spatio-temporal criterion for storm tracking is implemented and incorporated into the analysis, since it is assumed that extreme marine events on a basin scale may be influenced by the same low pressure systems following similar trajectories. A 23-year wave hindcast database at high spatial resolution provided by the WWIII model on unstructured mesh grid covering the Celtic Sea, the English Channel and the Bay of Biscay was employed to perform the analysis. Due to the large size of the dataset (more than 110, 000 spatial locations), a limited number of points were selected, either uniformly or guided by the bathymetry). In both situations, RFA proves effective in clustering homogeneous regions physically and statistically. Its reliability is based on the varying impact of major meteorological events on different areas at different scales. The spatial assessment of return levels of significant wave heights achieved by means of RFA are consistent with results of a pointwise model, with findings generally more smoothed in proximity to steep gradients and when ranging from offshore to coastal areas. The adoption of a "spatio-temporal declustering" allows more detailed wave patterns to be reproduced on a smaller spatial scale, especially in the vicinity of channel systems. Effects of swell are also described accurately.

The oceanic wave energy is a profuse and sustainable source of clean energy but its enourmous potential is under-exploited. Even though the idea of energy harnessing from oceanic waves is not new, the developments in wave energy conversion technologies are still in an embryonic stage. In most of the studies associated to wave-to-wire systems, oceanic waves are taken as regular waves with a fixed amplitude and a fixed frequency. The main area of focus of the previous studies includes the different conversion stages of the wave-towire system, particularly the mechanical, and the electrical conversion stage of the energy and the modeling of oceanic waves for such studies remained neglected in such studies. However, the actual oceanic waves can be presented with the sum of various frequencies to show a specific sea-states with significant wave height and the peak period as the main characterizing parameters. In this study, detailed mathematical modeling of oceanic waves is offered and various wave spectra are investigated for their application in wave-to-wire-based system studies. The best-suited wave spectra are identified parametrically and thereafter it is used for the generation of wave elevation time series in the proposed method presented in this study. The generated time series are appliesd in wave-to-wire systems for the investigation of wave energy conversion devices to mimic the real sea environment. Based on inverse fast Fourier transforms, oceanic wave elevation time series are determined which will be acting as input data for any of the wave energy converters deployed for the capturing

The study considers potential changes in the storm occurrence and intensity over the western Black Sea through analysis of long term series of wind and wave conditions simulated with relatively high resolution. It is a result of coupling of atmospheric and wave models and spans ...

Over recent years, ocean wave climate change due to global warming has attracted a lot of attention not only coastal and offshore engineer but also stakeholders in the marine industry. There is a wide range of application in ocean environment that require information on ocean wave climate data, such as ships design, design of offshore platforms and coastal structures or naval industry. In this research, monthly variation in significant wave height is studied using MRI-AGCM3.2 wind climate data for 25 year period from 1979-2003. The 25 year significant wave height simulation derived from JMA/MRI-AGCM wind climate data. The JMA/MRI-AGCM climate data were input into WAM model. The results showed that the monthly variability of significant wave height in the Northern Hemisphere is greater than in the Southern Hemisphere. Meanwhile, most of the equatorial regions are in calm condition all year. 

this study examines teleconnections between the north atlantic oscillation (nao) and the wave climate of the northwestern mediterranean sea (nWm), defined by the monthly mean significant wave height (sWH) and the 95 th percentile significant wave height (95 th percentile sWH), in the period ranging from 1958 to 2001. the data analyzed comes from the multidecadal hindcast over europe carried out during the HiPoCas project. in order to avoid fictitious cross-correlations, data were prewhitened by fitting a p-order autoregressive model. to split the temporal and spatial variability, an eof encoding technique was applied to residuals before searching for teleconnections. We found the northwestern mediterranean wave climate to be influenced by the north atlantic oscillation (nao) with an instantaneous response. When the nao is in its positive phase, positive anomalies in the sWH and the 95 th percentile sWH appear in the area between the Balearic islands, the Gulf of lions and the Catalonian coast.

This paper analyses the present Egyptian Mediterranean coast (EMC) climate and the response of its climate variables to global changes. First, the accuracy of the ERA-Interim dataset (1979-2010) for the studied region is examined by comparing these data with available independent observations. Second, the qualities of six global climate models (gCMs), together with the ensemble mean of multiple model realisations of the A1B scenario, are examined by comparing these with the ERA-Interim dataset. Finally, gCM simulations are used to describe the uncertainties in future climate change along the EMC. The results indicate that the observations are in good agreement with the ERA-Interim data. The data for the EMC, 1979-2000, display a significant positive trend for 2-m air temperature together with significant negative trends for total precipitation and sea level pressure. The climate model that best describes the present EMC climate is the CgCM 3.1 model, which is used to describe the future climate of the study area. The CgCM 3.1 model indicates that the EMC area will experience significant warming, substantial droughts, and a weak decrease in sea level pressure in the end of the current century.

The aim of the present work is to assess the wind and wave climate in the Black Sea while considering various data sources. A special attention is given to the areas with higher navigation traffic. Thus, the results are analyzed for the sites located close to the main harbors and also along the major trading routes. The wind conditions were evaluated considering two different data sets, the reanalysis data provided by NCEP-CFSR (U.S. National Centers for Environmental Prediction-Climate Forecast System Reanalysis) and the hindcast results given by a Regional Climate Model (RCM) that were retrieved from EURO-CORDEX (European Domain-Coordinated Regional Climate Downscaling Experiment). For the waves, there were considered the results coming from simulations with the SWAN (Simulating Wave Nearshore) model, forced with the above-mentioned two different wind fields. Based on these results, it can be mentioned that the offshore sites seem to show the best correlation between the two datasets for both wind and waves. As regards the nearshore sites, there is a good agreement between the average values of the wind data that are provided by the different datasets, except for the points located in the southern part of the Black Sea. The same trends noticed for the average values remain also valid for the extreme values. Finally, it can be concluded that the results obtained in this study are useful for the evaluation of the wind and wave climate in the Black Sea. Also, they give a more comprehensive picture on how well the wind field provided by the Regional Climate Model, and the wave model forced with this wind, can represent the features of a complex marine environment as the Black Sea is.

The aim of the present work is to assess the wind and wave climate in the Black Sea while considering various data sources. A special attention is given to the areas with higher navigation traffic. Thus, the results are analyzed for the sites located close to the main harbors and also along the major trading routes. The wind conditions were evaluated considering two different data sets, the reanalysis data provided by NCEP-CFSR (U.S. National Centers for Environmental Prediction-Climate Forecast System Reanalysis) and the hindcast results given by a Regional Climate Model (RCM) that were retrieved from EURO-CORDEX (European Domain-Coordinated Regional Climate Downscaling Experiment). For the waves, there were considered the results coming from simulations with the SWAN (Simulating Wave Nearshore) model, forced with the above-mentioned two different wind fields. Based on these results, it can be mentioned that the offshore sites seem to show the best correlation between the two datas...

On the base of laboratory experiments the nonlinear wave transformation above submerged rectangular permeable and solid bars was investigated. A transmission coefficient and a change of mean wave period as parameters of wave transformation were considered. Both of these parameters can characterize an ability of submerged structure to reduce a wave impact in coastal zone. It was revealed that for decreasing of mean wave period solid submerged bar is more effective, but permeable bar is more effective for decreasing of wave height. The optimal relations for transmission coefficient and change of mean wave period in dependence of parameters of bar and waves were revealed. For decreasing of wave mean period the optimal length of solid bar must be 0.4 of initial wavelength and 0.1-for permeable bar. For decreasing of wave height the length of bar for permeable bar must be 0.21 of initial wavelength and for solid bar-0.55. It was revealed that maximal decreasing of mean wave period will be at relative depth of bar 1.25 independently of permeability of bar. The optimal relation between transmission coefficient and changes of mean wave period depends on wave steepness.

A dynamical wind-wave climate simulation covering the North Atlantic Ocean and spanning the whole 21 st century under the A1B scenario has been compared with a set of statistical projections using atmospheric variables or large scale climate indices as predictors. As a first step, the performance of all statistical models has been evaluated for the present-day climate; namely they have been compared with a dynamical windwave hindcast in terms of winter Significant Wave Height (SWH) trends and variance as well as with altimetry data. For the projections, it has been found that statistical models that use wind speed as independent variable predictor are able to capture a larger fraction of the winter SWH inter-annual variability (68% on average) and of the long term changes projected by the dynamical simulation. Conversely, regression models using climate indices, sea level pressure and/or pressure gradient as predictors, account for a smaller SWH variance (from 2.8% to 33%) and do not reproduce the dynamically projected long term trends over the North Atlantic. Investigating the wind-sea and swell components separately, we have found that the combination of two regression models, one for wind-sea waves and another one for the swell component, can improve significantly the wave field projections obtained from single regression models over the North Atlantic.

Numerical wave models are powerful tools for investigating global wave climate. Here a global wave hindcast is employed to estimate the global pattern of crossing swells. However, the global patterns of crossing swells derived from the model are different from those derived from the synthetic aperture radar (SAR) wave mode products of quasi-linear inversion, indicating one of them is questionable. The comparison shows that the first two most energetic swells inversed by SAR are often not in accordance with the first two most energetic swells in the model, and this will have a large impact on the statistics of the data. Before this problem is solved, SAR wave products of quasi-linear inversion should be treated with care in wave climate studies.

Following the 13th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting and 4th Coastal Hazards Symposium in October 2013 in Banff, Canada, a topical collection has appeared in recent issues of Ocean Dynamics. Here we give a brief overview of the history of the conference since its inception in 1986 and of the progress made in the fields of wind-generated ocean waves and the modelling of coastal hazards before we summarize the main results of the papers that have appeared in the topical collection.

This is a PDF file of an article that has undergone enhancements after acceptance, such as the addition of a cover page and metadata, and formatting for readability, but it is not yet the definitive version of record. This version will undergo additional copyediting, typesetting and review before it is published in its final form, but we are providing this version to give early visibility of the article. Please note that, during the production process, errors may be discovered which could affect the content, and all legal disclaimers that apply to the journal pertain.

Kurzfassung Dieses Dokument steckt den Rahmen für die Auswertung und Bewertung der Auswirkungen von Klimawandel und Extremwetterereignissen auf den Verkehr und die Verkehrsinfrastruktur in Deutschland innerhalb des Themenfeldes 1 des BMVI-Expertennetzwerks ab. Die wesentlichen Festlegungen sind in Tabelle 0-1 zusammen gestellt. Dabei ist prinzipiell zwischen den Untersuchungen für den Binnen-und den Küstenbereich zu unterscheiden, wo unterschiedliche Modellinstrumente für die Auswertungen zur Verfügung stehen. Die aus den generierten Klimavariablen abgeleiteten Klimaindizes, welche für die Bewertung der Klimawirkungen verwendet werden, sind in Anlage 5 aufgeführt. Tabelle 0-1: Zusammenstellung der Eckpunkte des Auswerterahmens für regionale Klimaprojektionen. Untersuchungsgebiet Binnen Küste Betrachtungsgegenstand Aufbereitete regionale Klimamodelle Hochaufgelöste Klimasimulation gekoppelte regionale Ozean-Atmosphäre-Modelle Verwendete Modelle RCM-Ensemble aus EURO-CORDEX und ReKliEs entsprechend Tabelle 3-2 COSMO-CLM Version 4.8 (INT2LM Version 1.19) Ensemble gekoppelter Modelle entsprechend Tabelle 4-1

High-resolution, reliable global atmospheric and oceanic numerical models can represent a key factor in designing a coastal intervention. At the present, two main centers have the capabilities to produce them: the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) in the U.S.A. and the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). The NOAA and ECMWF wave models are developed, in particular, for different water regions: deep, intermediate, and shallow water regions using different types of spatial and temporal grids. Recently, in the Arabian Gulf (also named Persian Gulf), the Abu Dhabi Municipality (ADM) installed an ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) to observe the atmospheric and oceanographic conditions (water level, significant wave height, peak wave period, water temperature, and wind speed and direction) at 6 m water depth, in the vicinity of the shoreline of the Saadiyat beach. Courtesy of Abu Dhabi Municipality, this observations dataset is available;...

A Coupled Model Intercomparison Project Phase 5 (CMIP5)-derived single-forcing, single-model, and single-scenario dynamic wind-wave climate ensemble is presented, and its historic period (1979–2005) performance in representing the present wave climate is evaluated. A single global climate model (GCM)-forcing wave climate ensemble was produced with the goal of reducing the inter GCM variability inherent in using a multi-forcing approach for the same wave model. Seven CMIP5 EC-Earth ensemble runs were used to force seven WAM wave model realizations, while future wave climate simulations, not analyzed here, were produced using a high-emission representative concentration pathway 8.5 (RCP8.5) set-up. The wave climate ensemble’s historic period was extensively compared against a set of 72 in situ wave-height observations, as well as to ERA-Interim reanalysis and Climate Forecast System Reanalysis (CFSR) hindcast. The agreement between the wave climate ensemble and the in situ measurement...

Global climate simulations do not capture the exact time history, making it difficult to directly compare them with observations. In this study we simulate the sampling of altimeter observations from a seven-member wind and wave climate ensemble. This allows us to assess the skill of the climate simulations, relative to satellite observations instead of the typical approach which uses reanalysis or hindcast datasets as reference. Out of the sampling methods tested, we find that a systematic sampling technique performs the best. We then apply systematic sampling to wind fields from EC-Earth and wave fields generated using the wave model (WAM) to replicate the changing sampling of the satellite observations. Next we then quantitatively assess the climate simulations and find that the probability density functions (PDFs) computed from the EC-Earth wind speed samples match the shape of the PDFs obtained from the altimeter observations. EC-Earth consistently underestimates the wind speed with respect to the altimeter observations. Contrary to the wind speed underestimation, the wave simulations overestimate wave heights especially in the extra-tropics. The wind speed seasonality in EC-Earth is larger than the seasonality evaluated from altimeter wind observations while the opposite is true for the wave height seasonality; suggesting the wave physical parameterizations can be improved. We find that the wave height inter-annual variability of the modeled data is considerably less than the inter-annual variability evaluated from the altimeter observations; suggesting long-term climate variability is not well captured. Overall the wave ensemble captures the important features of the global wave climate. The methodology can be adapted to other climate simulations and observational datasets.

In those countries where wind plays a major role in the energy mix (EU, China and USA) actions have been carried out to develop offshore wind energy, albeit to varying degrees. These actions range from studying offshore wind to the development of laws and planning related to the construction of wind farms. Europe currently leads the way in offshore wind energy (with 84% of global installations), having achieved technical and commercial maturity, including the first floating wind farm to generate electricity, together with an emerging zerosubsidy culture. The Chinese wind industry has seen rapid development since 2005, however, well established laws, the use of a one-stop-shop system in the licencing process, and the establishment of higher feed-in tariffs (FITs), could all boost the Chinese offshore wind industry further. The possible future role of the USA in the offshore wind industry is now in the hands of its decision makers. A more streamlined licencing process, together with a long-term vision enshrined within stable economic incentives, could help to boost the offshore wind industry in the USA.

Long-term sustainable development of European offshore wind energy requires knowledge of the best places for installing offshore wind farms. To achieve this, a good knowledge of wind resources is needed, as well as knowledge of international, European, and national regulations regarding conflict management, marine environment conservation, biodiversity protection, licensing processes, and support regimes. Such a multidisciplinary approach could help to identify areas where wind resources are abundant and where conflicts with other interests are scarce, support measures are greater, and licensing processes are streamlined. An overview of offshore wind power studies at present, and of their future projections for the 21st century, allows for determining the optimal European locations to install or maintain offshore wind farms. Only northern Europe, the northwest portion of the Iberian Peninsula, the Gulf of Lyon, the Strait of Gibraltar, and the northwest coast of Turkey show no chang...

Waves at the ocean surface are responsible for modulating the exchange of radiation, heat, mass and momentum between the atmosphere and the ocean. Waves also play an important role in engineering and environmental related issues, such as coastal erosion, coastal flooding, and sea level extremes, representing a major hazard for any offshore structure or operation. The impact of climate change on ocean waves is therefore of paramount importance. This thesis investigates projected changes in future wave climate as a response to global warming, through a large set of simulations (ensembles), towards the end of the 21st century. The wave climate ensembles are subjected to a strict evaluation process, through comparison with reanalyzes, hindcasts and in-situ observations, to ascertain their ability to simulate the historical wave climate. Bias correction methods are implemented, to deal with the systematic errors found between the simulated and reference data sets, ultimately generating n...

Der coastDat Datensatz ist eine Zusammenstellung meteo-mariner Rekonstruktionen und von Szenarienrechnungen für die Zukunft, die mit Hilfe numerischer Modelle erstellt wurden. Die Kernstücke des Datensatzes umfassen hoch aufgelöste Wind-, Seegangsund Wasserstandsrekonstruktionen (Hindcasts), die bisher hauptsächlich für die Nordsee entwickelt wurden. Rekonstruktionen und Szenarien für andere Gebiete werden jedoch zunehmend verfügbar und in den Datensatz integriert. Je nach Parameter umfassen die rekonstruierten Zeiträume die letzten etwa 50-60 Jahre. Daten aus coastDat wurden erfolgreich sowohl zur Untersuchung wissenschaftlicher Fragestellungen als auch zur Betrachtung von mehr praxis-orientierten Anwendungen z. B. im Schiffbau oder der Offshore Windindustrie eingesetzt. In diesem Beitrag werden der Datensatz und die notwendigen Entwicklungen kurz vorgestellt sowie ein Überblick über Validierungsergebnisse gegeben. Anschließend werden eine kurze Übersicht über derzeit existierende Anwendungen gegeben und die Zugangsmöglichkeiten zu den Daten beschrieben.

Die deutsche Nordseeküste ist ein stark tidebeeinflusstes und komplexes Küstengewässer, das vielen natürlichen und anthropogenen Einwirkungen unterliegt. Diese Einwirkungen spiegeln sich in der Ausprägung der Gezeiten wider, die i. d. R. aus Pegelaufzeichnungen abgeleitet werden können. Das Verbundprojekt ALADYN ("Analyse der beobachteten Tidedynamik in der Nordsee", Förderkennzeichen: 03F0756 A-C) liefert einen Beitrag zur Erklärung der Änderungen und zeitlichen Variationen der Tidewasserstände und des Tidehubs seit Mitte des 20. Jahrhunderts. Untersucht wurden dazu mögliche groß- und kleinräumige Einflussfaktoren, die die Entwicklungen der Tidedynamik in der Deutschen Bucht beeinflusst haben. Zu den untersuchten großräumigen Einflussfaktoren zählen u. a. großräumige Veränderungen der Tidedynamik im Nordostatlantik, der Anstieg des mittleren Meeresspiegels, langfristige Schwankungen oder Veränderungen in der großräumigen atmosphärischen Zirkulation, überregionale morpholo...