History of Textile Technology

ZUSAMMENFASSUNG
Der sogenannte Mantel der Heiligen Elisabeth von Thüringen konnte am Institut für Konservierung und Restaurierung an der Universität für angewandte Kunst Wien einer eingehenden Untersuchung und Restau- rierung unterzogen werden. Bei ersten Voruntersuchungen zur Restau- riergeschichte wurde die Vielfalt der verwendeten Reparaturfäden doku- mentiert, dabei konnten fünf voneinander abzugrenzende Restaurier- phasen festgestellt werden. Aufgrund der in starkem Kontrast zum Ori- ginalgewebe stehenden und ungewöhnlich brillanten Farbigkeit der Reparaturfäden ging man bei diesen Materialien von einer synthetischen Färbung aus. Eine Farbstoffanalyse sollte beweisen, dass die Interven- tionen frühestens ab dem letzten Drittel des 19. Jahrhunderts ausge- führt worden sein konnten. Um Klarheit darüber zu erlangen, wurden an der Netherlands Cultural Heritage Agency Farbstoffuntersuchungen mittels HPLC-PDA durchgeführt. Die Resultate ergaben, dass zwei der verwendeten Fäden mit synthetischen Farbstoffen gefärbt worden waren, womit ein terminus post quem für die Datierung der letzten Reparaturphase vorlag. Die Farbstoffanalysen lieferten zwar keinen Hin- weis auf den Zeitpunkt der jeweiligen Eingriffe, bestätigten jedoch die Ergebnisse der konservierungswissenschaftlichen Untersuchungen. Die große Bedeutung der Zusammenarbeit unterschiedlicher Disziplinen konnte am Beispiel dieses Objektes einmal mehr aufgezeigt werden.

SUMMARY
The so called cloak of St. Elisabeth of Thuringia underwent an intensi- ve examination and conservation at the Institute of Conservation at the University of Applied Arts Vienna. The variety of threads used for earlier repairs was documented during the initial preliminary research; at least five different phases of restoration could be found. Because of the strong contrast to the original fabric and the extraordinary brilliant colours of the repair threads it was thought that those must be synthe- tic-dyed. A dyestuff analysis should prove that the repairs were execu- ted as early as the beginning of the last third of the 19th century. To gain clarity analyses with HPLC-PDA were made at the Netherlands Cul- tural Heritage Agency. The results indicated that two of the threads used had been coloured with synthetic dyes, thus giving us a terminus post quem for the date of the last phases of repairs. The analyses did not hint at the date of the old repairs, however they confirmed the results of the conservation-scientific examinations. Once again, this project demon- strated the great importance of collaboration between different discipli- nes in collating research and information.

Compression garments have been extensively in varied medical and sports applications. The article critically reviews the design aspects of knit compression garments for suitability in sports and medical applications. The influences of physical attributes of suitable knitted fabrics on the amount of pressure generated on the underlying body have been studied. The tensile properties of the knit fabrics having various orientations to stretch, predictive pressure generated by compression garments have been primarily considered. Subsequently a method of validating the reliability of laplace law for calculating applied pressures for calculation of applied pressures that are generated by compression garments have been highlighted. Modeling of compression garments has been done with the intended value of unit pressure for the body circumference of a variable curvature radius. The basis of modeling considered can be applied in designing compression garments supporting external treatment such as after burn therapy and lymphadema. The physical and mechanical properties of nylon/spandex knitted fabrics used as commercial medical compression garments have been analyzed. The findings help to understand whether a fabric is suitable for engineering compression garments and also for estimating the required compression force for designing an individualized compression with the medical compression fabrics. The dynamic pressure attenuation of compression garment is studied experimentally. The findings enable a better understanding of the characteristics of elastic fabric used for making compression garments, and prove useful for medical practitioners with scientific developments and for effective applications. The physical and mechanical properties of nylon/spandex knitted fabrics as commercial medical compression garments have been investigated. Specifically fabric elasticity and bursting strength have been studied to show the applicability of the fabrics for providing satisfactory compression. Such study is necessary to understand whether a fabric is suitable for engineering compression garments and also for estimating the required compression force for designing an individualized compression garments with medical compression fabrics. Study has been carried out to evolve an effective design and development of various high stretch compression products by analyzing fabric size, stretch properties and clothing pressure for different knit structures.

Call for Papers
Globalized Peripheries
New Approaches to the Atlantic World 1680–1850
Date: July 5th–7th, 2018
Place: European University Viadrina
(Frankfurt an der Oder, Germany)

Possible topics include but are not limited to:
• The exchange and movement of goods and people across
the oceans
• Merchants and merchant networks
• Consumption and material culture
• (Proto-)Industrial production and development
• Theories of political economy
• (Religious) Minorities as agents of trade
• Gender from a global perspective
• Theoretical and methodological approaches to “Atlantic
History” and/or “centers” and “peripheries”
Although the conference has no specific regional focus, we explicitly invite papers focused on the following “peripheries” of the Atlantic World and/or its historiography:
• Central and Eastern Europe
• West and West Central Africa
• South Asia

Proposals of ca. 300 words as well as a short CV (max. 1 page) should be sent to: globalized-peripheries@europa-uni.de
by October 15th, 2017.

We only accept proposals sent electronically to this e-mail address. Feel free to contact us at this address should you have any further questions. Please also indicate if you would like us to consider your proposal for publication.
We look forward to receiving your proposals!
Klaus Weber, Jutta Wimmler, Anka Steffen & Torsten dos Santos Arnold
www.kuwi.europa-uni.de/globalized-peripheries

ZUSAMMENFASSUNG Der sogenannte Mantel der Heiligen Elisabeth von Thüringen konnte am Institut für Konservierung und Restaurierung an der Universität für angewandte Kunst Wien einer eingehenden Untersuchung und Restau- rierung unterzogen werden. Bei ersten Voruntersuchungen zur Restau- riergeschichte wurde die Vielfalt der verwendeten Reparaturfäden doku- mentiert, dabei konnten fünf voneinander abzugrenzende Restaurier- phasen festgestellt werden. Aufgrund der in starkem Kontrast zum Ori- ginalgewebe stehenden und ungewöhnlich brillanten Farbigkeit der Reparaturfäden ging man bei diesen Materialien von einer synthetischen Färbung aus. Eine Farbstoffanalyse sollte beweisen, dass die Interven- tionen frühestens ab dem letzten Drittel des 19. Jahrhunderts ausge- führt worden sein konnten. Um Klarheit darüber zu erlangen, wurden an der Netherlands Cultural Heritage Agency Farbstoffuntersuchungen mittels HPLC-PDA durchgeführt. Die Resultate ergaben, dass zwei der verwendeten Fäden mit synthetischen Farbstoffen gefärbt worden waren, womit ein terminus post quem für die Datierung der letzten Reparaturphase vorlag. Die Farbstoffanalysen lieferten zwar keinen Hin- weis auf den Zeitpunkt der jeweiligen Eingriffe, bestätigten jedoch die Ergebnisse der konservierungswissenschaftlichen Untersuchungen. Die große Bedeutung der Zusammenarbeit unterschiedlicher Disziplinen konnte am Beispiel dieses Objektes einmal mehr aufgezeigt werden. SUMMARY The so called cloak of St. Elisabeth of Thuringia underwent an intensi- ve examination and conservation at the Institute of Conservation at the University of Applied Arts Vienna. The variety of threads used for earlier repairs was documented during the initial preliminary research; at least five different phases of restoration could be found. Because of the strong contrast to the original fabric and the extraordinary brilliant colours of the repair threads it was thought that those must be synthe- tic-dyed. A dyestuff analysis should prove that the repairs were execu- ted as early as the beginning of the last third of the 19th century. To gain clarity analyses with HPLC-PDA were made at the Netherlands Cul- tural Heritage Agency. The results indicated that two of the threads used had been coloured with synthetic dyes, thus giving us a terminus post quem for the date of the last phases of repairs. The analyses did not hint at the date of the old repairs, however they confirmed the results of the conservation-scientific examinations. Once again, this project demon- strated the great importance of collaboration between different discipli- nes in collating research and information.