Participación en la jornada del Institut d'Estudis Catalans (IEC) que, junto con otros debate... more Participación en la jornada del Institut d'Estudis Catalans (IEC) que, junto con otros debates preliminares, sirvió para confeccionar el informe Una mar de canvis : Recomanacions per a una gestió sostenible del medi marí i costaner del Consell Assessor per al Desenvolupament Sostenible (CADS), Col·lecció Informes del CADS 3 (2020) ISBN: 978843939991
(UPC), i catedràtic del Departament d'Enginyeria Civil i Ambiental de la UPC. Des del 1990 és dir... more (UPC), i catedràtic del Departament d'Enginyeria Civil i Ambiental de la UPC. Des del 1990 és director del Laboratori d'Enginyeria Marítima (LIM/ UPC), en el qual desenvolupa l'activitat investigadora en l'àmbit de l'enginyeria marítima (portuària i costanera). És vicepresident del Centre Internacional d'Investigació dels Recursos Costaners (CIIRC). Ha publicat més de quinze llibres i més de cent trenta articles en revistes nacionals i internacionals.
In January 2020, the storm Gloria hit the Western Mediterranean Sea causing severe coastal damage... more In January 2020, the storm Gloria hit the Western Mediterranean Sea causing severe coastal damages, destruction of infrastructures, flooding and several casualties. This extreme event was characterized by strong Eastern winds, record-breaking waves heights and periods, and a storm surge that locally beat the record along Valencia’s coastline. This paper analyses the dynamic evolution of sea level during this storm. The study employs both the in situ data and the operational forecasts of the PORTUS early warning system. Tide gauge data are analyzed on the different temporal scales that contribute to total sea level: long-term and seasonal, tides and storm surges, and higher frequency oscillations. It was found that, due to the unusual long wave periods, infragravity waves were generated and dominate the high frequency energy band, contributing significantly to extreme sea level records. This is a relevant finding, since this kind of oscillations are usually associated with larger bas...
Nature-based strategies for water renewal in micro-tidal coastal bays: application to the Ebre delta in the NW Mediterranean
The Fangar Bay, located at the northern lobe of the Ebro delta in the Spanish Mediterranean coast... more The Fangar Bay, located at the northern lobe of the Ebro delta in the Spanish Mediterranean coast, supports an important aquaculture industry that must coexist with eco-tourism and water sports enterprises.These activities have experienced an important growth in the recent years, which, together with the increase in temperature and acidification associated to climate change have led to water quality degradation and mortality events affecting aquaculture production.The bay mouth is controlled by the morphodynamic evolution of a fronting sand spit subject to longshore sand transport gradient.The sheltered character of this bay result in limited wave and tidal flushing power, leading to limited water renovation and quality degradation.The low water fluxes and long renewal times result in eutrophication and anoxia episodes, aggravated by the effects of global warming that increases the duration of high temperature periods.The present growth of the spit is narrowing the shallow bay entrance, reducing even more the water circulation inside the bay, therefore jeopardizing the sustainability of current socio-economic activities within the bay domain.The objective of this work is to explore different Nature-based strategies to increase water renovation and quality within the bay, without compromising the overall morphodynamic sustainability of the delta and without generating a significant Carbon footprint. Two main alternatives are considered to increase the circulation inside the bay: combining irrigation discharges with favourable wind events and controlled appearance of breaching channels and overwash fluxes to promote exchanges between bay and coastal sea waters. The performance of these Nature-based solutions will be assessed by means of nested and coupled hydro-morphodynamic models validated with in-situ and Satellite data. The paper will end with some conclusions on the exportability of the proposed Nature-based solutions for this and other micro tidal environments.Preprin
In this paper, the effectiveness of transplanted (either created or restored) seagrass meadows as... more In this paper, the effectiveness of transplanted (either created or restored) seagrass meadows as a coastal protection measure is assessed through a five-step methodology. The analysis is focused on a stretch of the Catalan coast (NW Mediterranean) which is a fetch-limited environment. The results show that even considering conservative values for the meadow parameters (plant diameter, meadow density and canopy height), significant reductions of the annual average wave heights reaching the beach may be obtained, reducing flooding and erosion risks. Therefore, the investment in the conservation and restauration of seagrass meadows for protecting coastal areas from erosion and flooding is a measure that must be considered, due to the multiple benefits that they provide including ecosystem services. In addition, the proposed methodology may be a useful tool for coastal managers to help them in the design of seagrass meadows for coastal protection.
The aim of this paper was to analyse how changes in wave patterns, due to the effect of climate c... more The aim of this paper was to analyse how changes in wave patterns, due to the effect of climate change, can affect wave energy power and yield around Menorca (NW Mediterranean Sea). The present and future wave energy conditions were derived from recently developed high-resolution wave projections in the NW Mediterranean. These wave projections were forced by surface wind fields obtained, respectively, by 5 different combinations of global and regional circulation models (GCMs and RCMs) for the A1B scenario. The results showed that the projected future spatial and directional distributions of wave energy are very similar to those of the present conditions. The multimodel ensemble average illustrated a slight general decrease in the annual and seasonal wave power (except for summer). However, the inter-model variability is large since two models showed opposite trends to the other 3 in most cases. Such inter-model variability is lower(higher) for winter(autumn). Another result is the reduction of the temporal variability in the future, considering both the multi-model mean and each single model projection. Such a decrease is consistent with the future seasonal redistribution of energy throughout the year. This would entail an increase in the efficiency of wave energy converters deployed in this area due to the more regular temporal distribution of the energy.
En este trabajo se presenta el desarrollo de la metodología necesaria para cuantificar parámetros... more En este trabajo se presenta el desarrollo de la metodología necesaria para cuantificar parámetros hidrodinámicos mediante el tratamiento digital de imágenes de vídeo y su aplicación a los tests filmados en distintas campañas de campo desarrolladas en el Delta del Ebro. En dichas campañas se vertieron trazadores (manchas de leche con fluoresceína y boyas) de forma simultánea al registro de medidas hidrodinámicas. Además de los experimentos realizados, también se describe el postproceso de las imágenes, ya que éstas están sometidas a alteraciones, ruidos, deformaciones, etc., por lo que deben ser depuradas mediante un tratamiento específico (filtros, transformaciones, etc.) en cada caso. El estudio hidrodinámico se ha realizado a tres escalas: turbulencia, oleaje y corrientes. Los primeros resultados obtenidos son de mezcla turbulenta y corresponden a los coeficientes de dispersión longitudinal y transversal de manchas vertidas. Se analiza su evolución temporal y espacial y se compara...
En este trabajo se presenta el desarrollo de la metodología necesaria para cuantificar parámetros... more En este trabajo se presenta el desarrollo de la metodología necesaria para cuantificar parámetros hidrodinámicos mediante el tratamiento digital de imágenes de vídeo y su aplicación a los tests filmados en distintas campañas de campo desarrolladas en el Delta del Ebro. En dichas campañas se vertieron trazadores (manchas de leche con fluoresceína y boyas) de forma simultánea al registro de medidas hidrodinámicas. Además de los experimentos realizados, también se describe el postproceso de las imágenes, ya que éstas están sometidas a alteraciones, ruidos, deformaciones, etc., por lo que deben ser depuradas mediante un tratamiento específico (filtros, transformaciones, etc.) en cada caso. El estudio hidrodinámico se ha realizado a tres escalas: turbulencia, oleaje y corrientes. Los primeros resultados obtenidos son de mezcla turbulenta y corresponden a los coeficientes de dispersión longitudinal y transversal de manchas vertidas. Se analiza su evolución temporal y espacial y se compara...
The normality polynomial and multi-linear regression approaches are revisited for estimating the ... more The normality polynomial and multi-linear regression approaches are revisited for estimating the reliability index, its precision, and other reliability-related values for coastal and structural engineering applications. In previous studies, neither the error in the reliability estimation is mathematically defined nor the adequacy of varying the tolerance is investigated. This is addressed in the present study. First, sets of given numbers of Monte Carlo simulations are obtained for three limit state functions and probabilities of failure are computed. Then, the normality polynomial approach is applied to each set and mean errors in estimating the reliability index are obtained, together with its associated uncertainty; this is defined mathematically. The data is also used to derive design points and sensitivity factors by multi-linear regression analysis for given tolerances. Results indicate that power laws define the mean error of the reliability index and its standard deviation ...
One of the most used measures to counteract coastal erosion is beach nourishment. It has advantag... more One of the most used measures to counteract coastal erosion is beach nourishment. It has advantages with respect to the use of rigid structures that sometimes entail non desired impacts on the surrounding areas. However, beach nourishments are often unsuccessful, requiring frequent refills due to the use of sediments that are not suitable. In this paper, a methodological framework for increasing the probability of success of beach nourishment projects is presented. First, this framework consists of detecting potential borrowing areas, by analysing shoreline evolution and selecting the stretch that shows a more accretive character. Once the borrowing area has been identified, several sand extraction options are defined. The beach response (in terms of erosion and flooding) to each sand extraction alternative is analysed by using two numerical models, which simulate the hydromorphodynamic patterns in the studied area. The numerical model results allow to find the best extraction alternative, which is that producing the least impact in the borrow area. As an example, the methodology is applied to a stretch of the Catalan coast (NW Mediterranean) to illustrate its potential. The proposed methodology shows to be a useful tool for helping coastal managers to optimize their available resources.
Coastal hydro-morphodynamics present significant uncertainties, one order of magnitude larger for... more Coastal hydro-morphodynamics present significant uncertainties, one order of magnitude larger for sediment transport than for the driving hydrodynamics. Met-ocean factors (waves, currents, and levels essentially) are normally selected from a probability distribution, where only the central trend is considered, and then the analysis of hydro-morphodynamic processes is carried out within a deterministic framework. This analysis is often based on a non-updated topo-bathymetry, with implicit error intervals for many variables, which results in uncertainties that, unless presented from an ethical perspective, tend to hinder proactive decision making and thus result in growing coastal degradation. To address this challenge, the article starts with the uncertainty in water/sediment fluxes and resulting morphodynamic impacts under average and storm conditions, proving the need to include explicit error levels in the analysis and subsequent assessments. The article develops this approach for...
The exergy of the tidal currents in the ría de Vigo area (NW Spain) is quantified using the resul... more The exergy of the tidal currents in the ría de Vigo area (NW Spain) is quantified using the results of a 28-day long simulation of the tidal flows. The results show that the northernmost strait connecting the ría with the Atlantic Ocean is a promising site for tidal energy tapping, in contrast with the energetically weaker estuary. On the basis of the average power density (APD), a 7.5 km 2 region is identified in this strait as the most advantageous area to install tidal energy converters (TECs), with a total annual exergy of around
Two areas of high tidal stream exergy are identified in the Ria de Vigo region. The energy output... more Two areas of high tidal stream exergy are identified in the Ria de Vigo region. The energy output of two TEC farms, based on different turbines, is estimated. 15% of the 22.5 MW hourly extractable power per site can be tapped by the farms. The estimated power output is between. Q3 Depending on the used TEC, the farms can feed between 4411 and 6638 Spanish homes.
The overtopping of port breakwaters may affect the assets located at the breakwater lee side. If ... more The overtopping of port breakwaters may affect the assets located at the breakwater lee side. If adaptation measures are not taken, the sea level rise will increase the overtopping discharges putting those assets at significant risk. This study compares, at a regional scale, overtopping discharges over port breakwaters for three storm conditions (return periods of 1, 5 and 50 years) under present climate as well as for three scenarios of sea level rise based on recent projections. The results indicate that, for the worst storm and sea level rise conditions, the overtopping discharge would not be negligible (larger than 1 l/s/m) in 35 ports (84%), in contrast with only 18 ports (42%) being affected under present conditions. In addition, in 28 ports (65%) the overtopping would be at least one order of magnitude larger than for present conditions. In the case of large storms, in 2 ports the overtopping discharge exceeds 200 l/s/m (the discharge that can initiate breakwater damage) under present conditions, while in the worst scenario of sea level rise the number of ports exceeding this value would be 7. On the other hand, the vulnerability of each port for which overtopping flow is greater than an acceptable discharge flux is assessed, and regional maps of vulnerability are plotted. For the worst storm conditions, 23% of the Catalan ports have risks associated with overtopping under present climate conditions. This percentage would increase to 47% in the worst sea level rise scenario.
In this paper, the wave energy potential in the western coast of France is assessed, analyzing 58... more In this paper, the wave energy potential in the western coast of France is assessed, analyzing 58 years of data from numerical models at 10 points located between latitudes 43º30'N and 47ºN. The study focuses on the temporal variability at different scales (monthly, seasonal and inter-annual). The northern part of this stretch is the most energetic (wave powers greater than 22 kW/m), with a decrease of the wave power southwards. The results show that both the wave power resource and the energy output of two wave energy converters (WECs) at the Atlantic coast of France have strong intra-annual and inter-annual variability. From one year to another the wave power may present variations of up to 200%, and the WEC energy output may almost double. These results illustrate that the average mean power alone is not sufficient for adequate wave resource quantification, and it is necessary to consider the intra-annual and inter-annual variability of the wave power and the WEC output when analyzing the potential installation of a wave energy farm in a certain area.
En este artículo se describen las campañas de campo CYTMAR I y II realizadas en la primavera y el... more En este artículo se describen las campañas de campo CYTMAR I y II realizadas en la primavera y el verano de 1997, con el fin de estudiar los procesos y los flujos físicos, biológicos y químicos en la zona del Delta del Ebro, tanto en el tramo estuarino del río como en la pluma de agua dulce que se forma en las cercanías de la desembocadura. Aquí el estudio se ha centrado en la zona estuarina, presentando algunos resultados preliminares y analizando las diferencias estacionales observadas.
M.I. Ortego, J.J. Egozcue, J. Gómez, C. Mösso and A. Sánchez-Arcilla ma.isabel.ortego@upc.edu (1)... more M.I. Ortego, J.J. Egozcue, J. Gómez, C. Mösso and A. Sánchez-Arcilla ma.isabel.ortego@upc.edu (1) Departament de Matemàtica Aplicada III, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, Barcelona (Spain) (2) Laboratori d’Enginyeria Marítima, UPC (3) Centre Internacional d ’ Investigació dels Recursos Costaners (CIIRC), UPC The problem • One of the main parameters involved in wave impacts for coasts and harbours is the angle (α) between wave crests approaching to the coast and shoreline orientation • Regarding coastal dynamics: potential sediment transport rate (Ql), as well as magnitude of the wave-induced longshore currents (vl) are function of the wave angle in breaking conditions • Harbour breakwaters are designed to face the main wave crests direction, projecting the harbour entrance to prevent as much as possible the incoming wave energy into sheltered harbour areas and thus harbour agitation • Changes in wave angle may have a significant potential impact in sediment transport rates and ...
This document presents the impacts of future climatic conditions as a function of coastal typolog... more This document presents the impacts of future climatic conditions as a function of coastal typology. The impact assessment is carried out at decadal and storm scales showing how such a combination produces the worst levels of damage. From here the implications at a “predictive” scale up to 10 years and at a projective scale up to 10 decades is considered. The resulting impact consequences, normalized by their respective probability of occurrence allow calculating risk levels. For the more clear vulnerability hotspots the proposal in the paper is to use natural accretion mechanisms where the natural power of meteorological and oceanographic events can be put to use to contribute sedimentary inputs to a starving coastal zone. In the same manner the natural adaptive capacity of coastal systems could be enhanced if natural accommodation space is provided or considered for present and future planning. The paper ends with some conclusions on the development of a pathway for efficient respo...
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