Wind/Wave directional modelling: a compositional approach

Journal of Coastal Research, 2012

Guillou, N. and Chapalain, G., 2012. Modeling penetration of tide-influenced waves in Le Havre harbor. Journal of Coastal Research, 28(4), 945-955. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

Coastal Engineering, 2009

A two-dimensional numerical model of nearshore waves, currents, and sediment transport was developed. The multi-directional random wave transformation model formulated by Mase [Mase, H., 2001. Multi-directional random wave transformation model based on energy balance equation. Coastal Engineering Journal 43 (4) (2001) 317] based on an energy balance equation was employed with an improved description of the energy dissipation due to breaking. In order to describe surface roller effects on the momentum transport, an energy balance equation for the roller was included following Dally-Brown [Dally, W. R., Brown, C. A., 1995. A modeling investigation of the breaking wave roller with application to cross-shore currents. Journal of Geophysical Research 100(C12), 24873]. Nearshore currents and mean water elevation were modeled using the continuity equation together with the depth-averaged momentum equations. Sediment transport rates in the offshore and surf zone were computed using the sediment transport formulation proposed by Camenen-Larson

1999

This paper describes a spectral wind-wave model, which explains the propagation, growth and decay of short-period waves in nearshore areas. The model includes the effects of refraction and shoaling due to varying depth und currents, wave generation caused by wind and energy dissipation due to bottom friction and wave breaking. The instationary model is solved by the Finite Element Method

Coastal Engineering, 1997

Five different coastal area morphodynamic models have been set up to run on the same offshore breakwater layout and an intercomparison carried out on the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic output produced by each scheme. In addition, the predicted morphodynamics was checked against available laboratory and field data.

2016

Two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted by changing the random wave conditions and structure configurations to develop a formula to predict run-up level on the tetrapod armoured rubble mound structure. The incident waves in the experiments included non-breaking, breaking, and broken wave conditions at the toe of the structure. In this study, a steep front slope (1:1.5) was set up to suggest the wave run-up formula while most of the previous studies focused on the milder sloped structures. The experimental results were compared to the previous research by van de Meer and Stam (1992). The results showed that the relative run-up height (the ratio of the run-up height to the significant wave height at the toe) converged as the incident wave steepness increased. On the other hand, the relative run-up height was highly dependent of the relative wave height (the ratio of the significant wave height to the water depth at the toe) as the incident wave steepness decreased. Then,...

Journal of Coastal Conservation, 2012

In the framework of a research project entitled "BRISA-BReaking waves and Induced SAnd transport", a methodology was devised to characterize the waves joining together in-situ measurements and numerical wave propagation models. With this goal in mind, a number of in-situ measurements were made, for selected positions in front of Praia de Faro (South Portugal), during four days (25th to 28th March, 2009) by using different types of equipments (e.g., resistive wave gauges, pressure sensors, currentmeters and a new prototype pore pressure sensor using optical fibre). Wave records were obtained simultaneously offshore (at a water depth of 11.7 m below mean sea level, MSL) and at the surf and swash zones. The data processing and analysis were made by applying classical time domain techniques. Numerical simulations of the wave propagation between offshore and inshore for the measurement period were performed with two numerical models, a 1D model based on linear theory and a nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, COULWAVE, both forced by the measured offshore wave conditions of 27th March 2009. Comparisons between numerical results and field data for the pressure sensors placed in the surf and swash zones were made and discussed. This approach enables to evaluate the performance of those models to simulate those specific conditions, but also to validate the models by gaining confidence on their use in other conditions.

PURPOSE: The Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) herein evaluates selected available formulas for predicting wave transmission at reef breakwaters and more conventional multilayer structures, leading to recommendations for the most appropriate formulas for shoreline-response modeling. The GENESIS shoreline response numerical model is modified to allow for automated time-dependent calculation of the wave transmission coefficient, and a case study is presented to illustrate the new predictive capability. BACKGROUND: Detached breakwaters, reef breakwaters, and spurs attached to jetties are shore-parallel structures constructed to serve as a shore-protection measure or to intercept sediment moving alongshore before arrival at inlet entrance channels and harbors. Reef breakwaters are rubble mounds of rock size similar to that found in the armor and first under- layer of conventional detached breakwaters, and they are designed to adjust in cross section in response t...

Gonzalez-Santamaria R., Zou Q.-P., and Pan S., 2011. Two-way coupled wave and tide modelling of a wave This study investigates the interactions of waves and tides at a wave farm in the southwest of England, in particular their effects on radiation stress, bottom stress, and consequently the effects on the sediment transport and the coast adjacent to the Wave Hub, the wave-farm. In this study, an integrated complex numerical modelling system is setup at the Wave Hub site and is used to study the effect of wave-current interaction on current circulation, bottom shear stress, as well as the impacts in the nearshore zone. Results show that tidal elevation and tidal currents have a significant effect on the wave height and direction predictions; tidal forcing and wind waves have a significant effect on the bed shear-stress, relevant to sediment transport; waves via radiation stresses have an important effect on the longshore and cross-shore velocity components, particularly during the spring tides. Waves can impact on bottom boundary layer and the mixing in the water column. Interactions between waves and tides at the Wave Hub site are important when modelling coastal morphology influenced by wave energy devices.

2014

The Coastal Modeling System (CMS) is an integrated numerical modeling system for simulating nearshore waves, currents, water levels, salinity and sediment transport, and morphology change. The CMS was designed and developed for coastal inlets and navigation applications, including channel performance and sediment exchange between inlets and adjacent beaches. The present report provides an updated description of the mathematical formulations and numerical methods of hydrodynamic, salinity and sediment transport, and morphology change model CMS-Flow. The CMS-Flow uses the Finite Volume Method on Cartesian grids and has both fully explicit and fully implicit time-stepping schemes. A detailed description of the explicit time-stepping scheme was provided in Militello et al. and . The present report focuses on the recent changes in the mathematical formulations and the implicit time-stepping schemes. The CMS-Wave and CMS-Flow models are tightly coupled within a single inline code. The CMS-Wave and CMS-Flow grids may be the same or have different spatial extents and resolutions. The hydrodynamic model includes physical processes such as advection, turbulent mixing, combined wave-current bottom friction; wave mass flux; wind, atmospheric pressure, wave, river, and tidal forcing; Coriolis force; and the influence of coastal structures. The implicit hydrodynamic model is coupled to a nonequilibrium transport model of multiple-sized total-load sediments. The model includes physical processes such as hiding and exposure, bed sorting and gradation, bed slope effects, nonerodible surfaces, and avalanching.

A numerical model is developed to determine wind wave induced shoreline changes by solving sand continuity equation and taking one line theory as a base, in existence of Igroins and T-groins, whose dimensions and locations may be given arbitrarily. The model computes the transformation of deep water wave characteristics up to the surf zone and eventually gives the result of shoreline changes with user-friendly visual outputs. Herein, a modification to a readily accepted one-line model as sheltering effect of groins on wave breaking and diffraction is introduced together with representative wave input as annual average wave height. Compatibility of the currently developed tool is tested by a case study and it is shown that the results, obtained from the model, are in good agreement qualitatively with field measurements.