Shoreline Studies

Sandy beaches in Southern California are experiencing rising coastal erosion due to changes in precipitation patterns and urban growth. As a result, beach nourishment is necessary for mitigation. In our study, we forecast the rates of shoreline retreat and the required volumes of sand nourishment to mitigate it for the coming decades. We employ photogrammetric multi-decadal shoreline positioning and Digital Shoreline Analysis System methods to measure and predict the coastal evolution of the Gulf of Santa Catalina in Southern California. This region is hypothesized to be globally representative of other semi-arid sandy coasts facing similar hydroclimatic and anthropogenic challenges. Our findings indicate that Southern California's shoreline retreat rates for sandy beaches will increase from the present average value of ~-1.45 to-2.12 meters per year in 2050 and to-3.18 meters per year in 2100. Consequently, the annual volume of sand required for beach nourishment could triple by 2050, increasing from the present-day amount of ~1223 to ~3669 cubic meters per year per kilometer. However, the associated cost for this nourishment will grow five times, exacerbating several coastal communities' economic and logistical pressures. Similar trends are emerging globally, with semi-arid developing nations already grappling with coastal hazards and may struggle to manage the escalating costs of curbing beach nourishment.

The morphology of coastal regions is continually changing because of both natural and human factors. Monitoring and understanding these changes are essential for efficient coastal management and sustainable development. To protect and develop beaches, quantitative monitoring of coastal changes is crucial. According to this study, there is a persistent erosion issue with the shoreline of the Rosetta region in Egypt. Over the previous century, there has been noticeable erosion. This is mostly because of the Aswan High Dam, which was built in 1964 and decreased runoff and sediment flow. Five Landsat images spanning the years 1980-2023 were utilized in this study. The Nile Delta would be eroding at an alarming rate if action were not taken due to coastal erosion, which is made worse by sea level rise. Our study's primary goal is to evaluate the shoreline of the Rosetta region and identify rates of erosion and accretion as well as patterns of accumulation and erosion using a combination of statistical analysis of the coastline using DSAS software and remote sensing techniques. It also seeks to pinpoint hotspots that require security. In this study, the Shoreline Linear Regression Rate (LRR), End Point Rate (EPR), Shoreline Change Envelope (SCE), and Net Shoreline Movement (NSM) were determined by creating crosssections perpendicular to the baseline using the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS). According to the analysis of coastal change, the periods with the highest levels of erosion were between 1980 and 1990, before the protection of the promontory took place. In addition, the results extracted from this study showed a stabilized shoreline between 2000 and 2023 at the Rosetta Promontory and noticeable erosion in the east and west of the promontory.

Shoreline segmentation is a specialized water-land segmentation task that detects the position of the shoreline. Existing datasets for segmentation either do not focus on coastal environments (e.g., DeepGlobe) or are not based on high-resolution imagery (e.g., Sen1Floods11). To fill this gap, we built Coastal Aerial Imagery Dataset (CAID), a high-resolution, manually labeled benchmark dataset built on aerial imagery for shoreline segmentation. CAID consists of 20,689 images of 500 × 500 pixels across 850 NAIP sites across the Great Lakes region. The dataset covers a variety of coastal landscapes and its representativeness of coastal environments was evaluated using three criteria: water body area, shoreline length ratio, and mean water hue. We also assessed the benchmark performance of existing segmentation models on CAID. While these models achieved high mIoU and mAcc scores, accurately positioning shorelines remains a challenge, a limitation that is not fully reflected by existing evaluation metrics. To address this, we introduced mean shoreline covering ratio (mSCR), a novel metric that quantifies each model's ability to align with ground-truth shorelines. The CAID dataset, along with the associated code for training and evaluating deep learning models, will be publicly released under the CC-BY-4.0 license via GitHub and Zenodo to ensure open-access availability.

This scientific investigation provides valuable insights into the dynamics of shoreline alteration in the Jagatsinghpur district coast, facilitating informed decision-making for implementing coastal protection strategies. This study presents a comprehensive assessment of shoreline alteration along the 55.045 km stretch of the Jagatsinghpur district coast in India from 1990 to 2020. Landsat 5 TM and 8 OLI satellite image data were used for the analysis. The quantification of erosion and deposition shoreline change rates are computed through a semiautomated approach employing four statistical methods SCE, NSM, EPR, and LLR in the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS). The coastline was divided into four zones at the tehsil level, resulting in the generation of 5149 transects, categorized as Paradip tehsil-I, Abhyachandpur tehsil-II, Ersama tehsil-III, and Balikud tehsil-IV. The analysis revealed significant erosion in specific areas, including Paradip town in Zone I, Nuagan in Zone II, Zone III, and Kusupur in Zone IV. The decision matrix showed an urgent need for erosion rectification in specific regions. The results indicate the necessity of implementing coastal protection measures in Zone III, B, and D subregions in Zone I and D and F subregions in Zone II. Meanwhile, in Zone IV, subregions A and B necessitate attention.

Coastal regions are vital to global economic growth, housing a significant portion of the world's population and serving as key centers for economic and infrastructural developments. Approximately 10% of the world's population lives within 5 km of the coast, while 5% reside between 5 and 10 km. This proximity increases their vulnerability to risks such as high-tide flooding, storm surges, and coastal erosion, especially as these threats intensify with climate change. Despite significant efforts to assess and monitor anthropogenic and natural phenomena in coastal areas, many regions remain understudied, facing unprecedented challenges that demand advanced investigative approaches.

Satellite-derived shoreline (SDS) methods have emerged as a leading solution, leveraging vast Earth Observation data and advancements in image analysis technologies. Although SDS provides critical insights into long- and short-term coastal changes, there remains a need for further research into innovative frameworks to fully realize its potential.

This Research Topic aims to explore and enhance the methodologies associated with mapping and understanding shoreline changes using satellite images. The focus is to present diverse algorithms and systems that offer novel approaches for shoreline extraction and modeling. It seeks to integrate the latest advancements in artificial intelligence and machine learning to develop and refine SDS algorithms, ensuring they are both effective and adaptable to different coastal contexts. By doing so, it aims to test new algorithms and improve existing ones to address the dynamic challenges of coastal monitoring.

To gather further insights into innovative satellite-derived shoreline detection techniques, we welcome articles addressing, but not limited to, the following themes:

- Development and application of new image pre-processing techniques.

- Exploration of spectral indices for water edge detection.

- Integration of AI and machine learning in shoreline extraction.

- Methodological innovations in combining SDS with other remote sensing data.

- Creation and evaluation of comprehensive systems and toolkits for shoreline analysis.

The study investigates the spatiotemporal shoreline dynamics of selected coastal stretches in Gujarat and Odisha, India, from 1980 to 2024. The 1980-2024 period was chosen to enable long-term shoreline trend analysis using reliable satellite data, capturing both natural coastal dynamics and human-induced impacts, while aligning with key climatic and developmental phases affecting Gujarat and Odisha. Four coastal regions were analyzed: Pingleshwar (30.196 km) and Mandavi (31.439 km) in Gujarat, and Tandahar (30.229 km) and Satabhaya (30.443 km) in Odisha. These stretches represent diverse geomorphological settings and varying exposure to erosion and accretion, offering valuable insights into India's eastern and western coastal dynamics. The analysis utilized the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS), applying End Point Rate (EPR), Linear Regression Rate (LRR), and Net Shoreline Movement (NSM) methods to assess shoreline change across intervals

A coastline of about 100 km in southern Karnataka, India has been investigated in the present study. The analysis of shoreline changes in the past 90 years has been carried out to understand the coastal dynamics and its influence on the natural and man-made features. The maps generated based on earliest available topographical maps have been compared with the maps generated based on the high spatial resolution (5.8 m) PAN data of IRS-1C of 1996 and 1998. The multidated data products study indicates the gradual shifting of the estuarine mouths of Nethravathi-Gurupur, Mulki-Pavanje and Udyavara to the north. A part of the changes in the morphology can traced to human interference by way of construction of engineering structures. The breakwater of New Mangalore Port, the breakwaters at the mouths of Nethravathi-Gurupur estuary, Udyavara estuary and seawalls elsewhere have contributed substantially to the modification of shoreline. An evaluation of depositional and erosional sites in the coastal zone indicates that the area covered by depositional features marginally exceed those under erosion. The enlargement and emergence of the land can be attributed to tectonic uplift.

Forest fragmentation, caused by human activities, has negative consequences for forest health and biodiversity. The Sundarbans, situated in two densely populated countries, face ongoing human encroachment due to residential construction. This study investigated changes in forest cover and fragmentation in the Sundarbans, Bangladesh, from 2017 to 2023. The analysis used Sentinel-2 imagery and the Google Earth Engine (GEE) platform to classify water bodies, mangrove forests, built-up areas, and agriculture zones. Accuracy levels have not significantly fluctuated, but overall accuracy remained between 88 % and 91 %, with high agreement kappa statistics ranging from 0.83 to 0.88 across all years. The study identified Patch, Edge, Perforated, and Core forest classes, revealing annual shifts in land use. Notably, the 'Patch' class indicated localized regeneration, while the 'Core (>202 ha)' declined due to deforestation, urban expansion, and shifting agriculture. The Core class decreased significantly from 205,421 ha in 2017-73,127 ha in 2020. Additionally, Normalized Difference Vegetation Index (NDVI) indices highlighted fluctuations in forest classes and vegetation/non-vegetation areas. Canopy changes showed a 3 % reduction in high canopy (>0.3) from 2017 to 2023. High-resolution data facilitated the precise mapping of fragmented areas, emphasising the urgent need for conservation planning amidst urbanization while preserving the Sundarbans' ecological integrity.

The Canal reputedly built on the orders of the Persian King Xerxes across a narrow isthmus in northern Greece to allow his fleet access into the Aegean in advance of the Persian invasion of Greece in the early fifth century BC must have been a remarkable engineering operation for its time. Yet apart from a depression in the central sector of the isthmus, almost nothing of this canal is visible today, nor are there visible remains of building structures and harbour installations; what information there is about it comes from accounts by ancient writers, notably Herodotus, and nineteenth century travellers. This paper describes the results of a large programme of survey aimed at detecting this putative, now buried structure and ascertaining whether or not it was a canal across the full width (2 km) of the isthmus. Following a detailed topographic survey, resistivity soundings and ground-penetrating radar were carried out principally in the central sector of the canal; the latter detected successive infillings of the canal but neither its original sides nor its bottom. Seismic refraction and reflection measurements, on the other hand, provided decisive evidence for the canal's existence in the central sector, with strong support coming from the analysis of sediment cores: its depth there is 14-15 m below the present ground surface, with top and bottom widths of 25-35 and at most 20 m respectively. The canal's northerly course has been defined but less confidently, whereas to the south the picture still appears incomplete. The canal may indeed have been built across the full 2 km, but the alternative hypothesis that it connected with the sea at only one end and that there was a (short) slipway at the other end cannot be dismissed. Whichever model is correct, a crucial finding from the sediment analysis is that the lifetime of the canal was short.

Coastal areas are always under frequent threat from various natural processes and man-induced activities. Coastal erosion is recognized as the permanent loss of land along the shoreline resulting in the transformation of the coast. The current study focuses on long-term coastal erosion analysis of the entire Karnataka coast using Remote Sensing, Geographical Information System (GIS), Linear Regression Rate (LRR), and End Point Rate (EPR) techniques. Analysis of 26 (1990 to 2016) years of erosion using Landsat images by the use of the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) tool has been done. The results show a high erosion rate at Ullal during this period (LRR -1.3 m/yr) and accretion at Devbagh (LRR 3.2 m/yr). The southern Karnataka coast faces severe erosion especially at Ullal, where the settlement is high. At Thanirbhavi, Mukka, Kota, and Om Beaches erosion also is noticed. Both anthropogenic activities like ports, seawalls, breakwaters, etc. and natural processes like long shore drift, seasonal variation, etc. are factors affecting the shoreline change along the Karnataka coast.

Over the last few decades several vegetation indices were used to map Mangrove forest using satellite images. Difficulty still persists in discrimination of mangroves from non-mangrove vegetation, especially in areas where mangrove species are mixed with other vegetation types. In the present study we have attempted to develop an improved index, which utilizes the information from the Normalized Difference Vegetation Index (NDVI) and the Normalized Difference Water Index (NDWI) of Bhitarkanika mangrove forest of Odisha, India. These indices are negatively correlated (r = -0.988; p < 0.01). Further, the NDWI values were subtracted from the NDVI values at the pixel level. As the outputs are negatively related, subtraction increases the upper and lower range of the overall output, also increasing the distinct values of two classes with near-similar spectral signatures. Same algorithm was applied on mangroves of Sundarbans (r = À0.987) and Andaman (r = À0.989). A comparison between four established indices [NDVI, NDWI, Soil Adjusted Vegetation Index (SAVI), Simple Ratio (SR)] and the newly developed index namely Combined Mangrove Recognition Index (CMRI) were performed. Accuracy assessment using Kappa statistics, revealing that CMRI produces better accuracy (73.43%) compared to other indices, followed by NDVI (56.29%) and SR (48.79%).

Spanning across Bangladesh and India, the Sundarban Delta consists of over a thousand islands, the majority of which are protected. These islands are important for the rich biodiversity and unique species found here. However, these islands are also at the forefront of climate change due to the impact of rising sea levels and extreme weather events. Therefore, we analyzed the long-term transformations in the land use land cover (LULC) between 1999 and 2020. We used a variety of geostatistical methods, including optimized hot spots cold spots and join count statistics, to examine the spatial patterns of changes in LULC across the study area. The results of our analysis revealed substantial changes in the spatial patterns of mangroves and pond aquaculture. The changes revealed a distinct northsouth demarcation in spatial patterns, in the form of clustering of mangroves in the uninhabited islands located in the south and pond aquaculture clustered in the northern inhabited islands. The loss of area under mangroves was concentrated in the southern edges of the islands, which were most exposed to erosion in the open ocean. Nevertheless, we observed an increase in the area under mangroves in some of the northern riverine islands (17 km 2). In the case of pond aquaculture, it was mostly concentrated in inhabited islands in the north. Most of the expansions were concentrated in the Indian part of the delta (631 km 2). It is noteworthy that because of effective conservation measures, there was very limited overlap between mangroves and pond aquaculture, denoting the conversion of agricultural land to pond aquaculture instead of mangroves. Thus, the results of our study revealed the importance of local level conservation policies and anthropogenic activities, such as deforestation and local level disturbance like overextraction of water and pollution, on the changing patterns of LULC across this unique, fragile ecosystem. Future studies may incorporate a finer resolution time series of LULC changes over time and space to enable more detailed analysis.

This study aims to document and to elucidate the Jeneberang River delta evolution during 1922 -2022 by analyzing the transport of sediment in and out of the river through erosion and sedimentation. The method used is a geospatial analysis of the delta and river evolution using the Dutch map

O monitoramento de derramamentos de óleo e seus efeitos na geologia costeira do porto de Pemba por meio de detecção
remota é um tema que se compreende a sua relevância académica e ambiental. O derramamento de óleo representa uma
série de ameaças, especialmente em regiões costeiras e marinhas. Moçambique, por outro lado, possui muitas dessas
áreas costeiras. Entretanto, destaca-se os softwares como SNAP (Sentinel Application Platform) e QGIS foram usados
para processar e analisar imagens de radar na realização da pesquisa. A utilização dessas técnicas automáticas permitiu
analisar um grande volume de dados, possibilitando a estimativa rápida e precisas da área afectada por derrame. Os
resultados do estudo mostraram que a exposição ao óleo teve um impacto significativo na vida das populações locais.

Bu makalede dil ve onun farklı modları ele alınmaya çalışılmıştır. Bir taraftan dilin evrimsel ve tarihsel gelişimine dair farklı görüşler incelenirken, diğer taraftan da bu görüşlerle ilişkili olan proto-dil, iletişim, konuşma, söyleme gibi dilsel eylem ve öğelerin felsefi anlamı ortaya koyulmaya çalışılmıştır. Öncelikle dilin karakteristik özelliklerine ilişkin farklı güncel görüşler sunulup, burada dilselliğin iki modu olarak iletişim ve konuşma hayvanın ve insanın dilselliği üzerinden incelemeye alınmıştır. Bu iki modun arasındaki benzerlikler ve farklılıklara belli dilsel, düşünsel, bilişsel, biyolojik, antropolojik vs. bağlamlarla birlikte işaret edilmiştir. Bunun ardından, üçüncü bir dilsel mod olarak, özellikle Heidegger'in kehre dönemindeki görüşleri üzerinden "şiirsel düşünme" ve "şiirsel söyleme" anlayışı incelenmiştir. Bu incelemede, "şiirsel söylemenin" daha önce bahsedilen dilin iki modu (iletişim ve konuşma) ile ne türden bir ilişkiye sahip olduğu ve bu iki moddan nasıl ayrıldığı üzerine açıklamalar getirilmiştir. Burada hem dil ve düşünme arasında ne kadar yakın ve özsel bir ilişki olduğu sergilenmiş hem de Heidegger'in ortaya koyduğu hâliyle "şiirsel söylemenin" ne türden farklı fenomenolojik katmanlarda ortaya çıktığı incelenmiştir. Burada "gündelik konuşma" ve "şiirsel söyleme" arasında "dili kullanma" ve "dili konuşma" teması üzerinden kurulan karşıt zıtlık ile, "şiirsel söylemenin" burada ele alındığı bağlamda (ve Heidegger düşüncesinde) dil-düşünme ilişkisi için ne kadar temel bir potansiyele olduğu ortaya koyulmuştur. Son olarak bu dil-düşünme ilişkisinin sadece Heidegger'de değil ama Batı felsefesi ve düşünmesinde mevcut olan üstü örtülü bir eğilim olduğuna işaret ederek makaledeki tartışma bir bütünlüğe kavuşturulmuştur.

The pattern of development and placement of infrastructure along the coast applied to Ambon Island, besides presenting extraordinary attractiveness, also holds a high potential for vulnerability. Because the infrastructure being built will be directly affected by the destructive forces of nature through the condition of coastal waters when big waves occur. The result is abrasion, erosion or sedimentation which directly affects the morphology of the beach. This also happened to the Air Kodok Beach in Hatu Village, which is located at the coordinate span of -3.7219 E, 128.0636 S to Waikiri Beach at coordinates -3.7243 E, 128.0606 S, where in the coastal area of Hatu Village there are vital objects such as the Aproach Light (Aircraft Landing Lights), provincial roads that connect community access from Hatu, Liliboi and Allang to Ambon City, as well as residential areas that enter the coastal border area. This phenomenon is interesting to study on the magnitude of the impact that occurred, and one of the measuring tools that can be used to assess the criteria for damage to coastal areas is to use the standard Isued Letter of the Minister of PUPR No.8/SE/M/2010 concerning Enforcement of Guidelines for Assessment of Coastal Damage and Priority Handling. The results showed that the analysis of coastal damage assessment and prioritization based on environmental damage and the level of importance at the location of Hatu Village was included in grade E category priority (not prioritized), for damage caused by erosion/abrasion and damage to coastal buildings in Hatu Village, included in the less prioritized category (priority D). ), up to very very high priorityemergency (priority A), namely in the case of damage to the 55 m long sea wall, between STA 0+100 to 0+200 due to wave scouring. Pola pengembangan dan penempatan infrastruktur di sepanjang pesisir pantai yang diterapkan di Pulau Ambon, selain menyajikan daya tarik yang luar biasa, juga menyimpan potensi kerawanan yang tinggi. Karena infrastruktur yang dibangun akan terdampak langsung menghadapi daya rusak alam lewat kondisi perairan pantai saat tejadi gelombang yang besar. Akibatnya adalah abrasi, erosi, ataupun sedimentasi yang langsung mempengaruhi morfologi pantai. Hal ini juga yang terjadi pada Pantai Air Kodok Desa Hatu yang terletak pada posisi bentang koordinat -3.7219 BT, 128.0636 LS sampai dengan Pantai Waikiri pada koordinat -3.7243 BT, 128.0606 LS, di mana pada daerah pantai Desa Hatu adanya objek vital seperti Aproach Light (Lampu Pendaratan Pesawat), jalan provinsi yang menghubungan akses masyarakat dari Hatu, Liliboi dan Allang ke Kota Ambon, serta pemukiman penduduk yang masuk area sempadan pantai.Fenomena tersebut, menarik untuk didalami terhadap besarnya dampak yang terjadi, dan salah satu alat ukur yang dapat digunakan untuk menilai kriteria kerusakan daerah pantai adalah menggunakan standar Surat Edaran Menteri PUPRNo.8/SE/M/2010 tentang Pemberlakukan Pedoman Penilaian Kerusakan Pantai dan Prioritas Penanganannya. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa analisa penilaian kerusakan pantai dan penentuan prioritasnya berdasarkan kerusakan lingkungan dan tingkat kepentingannya pada lokasi Desa Hatu masuk kategori prioritas E (tidak diutamakan), untuk kerusakan akibat erosi/abrasi dan kerusakan bangunan pantai Desa Hatu, temasuk kategori kurang diutamakan (prioritas D), sampai dengan amat sangat diutamakandarurat (prioritas A), yaitu pada kerusakan tembok laut sepajang 55 m, di antara STA 0+100 s/d 0+200 akibat gerusan gelombang.

The pattern of development and placement of infrastructure along the coast applied to Ambon Island, besides presenting extraordinary attractiveness, also holds a high potential for vulnerability. Because the infrastructure being built will be directly affected by the destructive forces of nature through the condition of coastal waters when big waves occur. The result is abrasion, erosion or sedimentation which directly affects the morphology of the beach. This also happened to the Air Kodok Beach in Hatu Village, which is located at the coordinate span of -3.7219 E, 128.0636 S to Waikiri Beach at coordinates -3.7243 E, 128.0606 S, where in the coastal area of Hatu Village there are vital objects such as the Aproach Light (Aircraft Landing Lights), provincial roads that connect community access from Hatu, Liliboi and Allang to Ambon City, as well as residential areas that enter the coastal border area. This phenomenon is interesting to study on the magnitude of the impact that occurred, and one of the measuring tools that can be used to assess the criteria for damage to coastal areas is to use the standard Isued Letter of the Minister of PUPR No.8/SE/M/2010 concerning Enforcement of Guidelines for Assessment of Coastal Damage and Priority Handling. The results showed that the analysis of coastal damage assessment and prioritization based on environmental damage and the level of importance at the location of Hatu Village was included in grade E category priority (not prioritized), for damage caused by erosion/abrasion and damage to coastal buildings in Hatu Village, included in the less prioritized category (priority D). ), up to very very high priorityemergency (priority A), namely in the case of damage to the 55 m long sea wall, between STA 0+100 to 0+200 due to wave scouring. Pola pengembangan dan penempatan infrastruktur di sepanjang pesisir pantai yang diterapkan di Pulau Ambon, selain menyajikan daya tarik yang luar biasa, juga menyimpan potensi kerawanan yang tinggi. Karena infrastruktur yang dibangun akan terdampak langsung menghadapi daya rusak alam lewat kondisi perairan pantai saat tejadi gelombang yang besar. Akibatnya adalah abrasi, erosi, ataupun sedimentasi yang langsung mempengaruhi morfologi pantai. Hal ini juga yang terjadi pada Pantai Air Kodok Desa Hatu yang terletak pada posisi bentang koordinat -3.7219 BT, 128.0636 LS sampai dengan Pantai Waikiri pada koordinat -3.7243 BT, 128.0606 LS, di mana pada daerah pantai Desa Hatu adanya objek vital seperti Aproach Light (Lampu Pendaratan Pesawat), jalan provinsi yang menghubungan akses masyarakat dari Hatu, Liliboi dan Allang ke Kota Ambon, serta pemukiman penduduk yang masuk area sempadan pantai.Fenomena tersebut, menarik untuk didalami terhadap besarnya dampak yang terjadi, dan salah satu alat ukur yang dapat digunakan untuk menilai kriteria kerusakan daerah pantai adalah menggunakan standar Surat Edaran Menteri PUPRNo.8/SE/M/2010 tentang Pemberlakukan Pedoman Penilaian Kerusakan Pantai dan Prioritas Penanganannya. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa analisa penilaian kerusakan pantai dan penentuan prioritasnya berdasarkan kerusakan lingkungan dan tingkat kepentingannya pada lokasi Desa Hatu masuk kategori prioritas E (tidak diutamakan), untuk kerusakan akibat erosi/abrasi dan kerusakan bangunan pantai Desa Hatu, temasuk kategori kurang diutamakan (prioritas D), sampai dengan amat sangat diutamakandarurat (prioritas A), yaitu pada kerusakan tembok laut sepajang 55 m, di antara STA 0+100 s/d 0+200 akibat gerusan gelombang.

This study explored the potential of Digital Earth Africa (DE Africa) coastline products for coastal vulnerability index (CVI) assessment. Although, CVI can be calculated from several dataset, objective of this study is to assess the CVI using remotely sensed data including the DE Africa coastline products and the Advanced Space borne thermal Emission and Reflection Radiometer Global Digital Elevation Model version 2 (ASTER GDEM), geological map, and geographic information system (GIS) techniques. The study has been conducted on the Atlantic coast of Morocco to evaluate the variability of the coastline of Casablanca from 2000 to 2023. The research was conducted by analyzing DE Africa coastline products namely annual shorelines and rates of coastal change along the Casablanca coastline. These products were used to extract coastal erosion metrics namely annual shoreline distances, shoreline change envelope (SCE), net shoreline movement (NSM), linear regression rate (LRR) and end point rate (EPR). The process involved the assessment of shoreline dynamics based on coastal erosion metrics and their variations especially for six main beaches located on the coast of Casablanca. These metrics were used in conjunction with information related to coastal elevation, coastal geomorphology and coastal slope, extracted from geologic map and ASTER GDEM, to compute the CVI in the GIS environment. The analyses of these datasets indicated that the major areas of Casablanca coastline, especially on the sand beaches, situated at elevation less than 12 m are threatened by the coastal hazards and are under pressure of coastal erosion at-1.5 m/yr rate. The results indicated that around 44 % and 23 % of the studied area have respectively a very high to high vulnerability index and they are vulnerable to natural phenomena such as inundation, coastal flooding and submersion, while 8 % and 25 % have respectively moderate and low vulnerability. This study showed that DE Africa coastline products combined with local landscape information constitute an invaluable tool for the studies of coastal monitoring.

Coastal environments are highly dynamic and sensitive to interference and variations caused by the numerous natural and anthropogenic agents. The northern coast of Northeastern Brazil has undergone intense erosion in recent years. However, the construction of the Pecém Port modified the beach and shoreline features differently from the adjacent areas. This article describes using remote-sensing images integrated with a Geographic Information System to evaluate the sedimentary balance and morphological changes observed in the sandy beach area that was affected by the construction of Pecém Port. Two methods were applied to the RapidEye images to quantify the short-time changes that occurred on the coast. The Digital Shoreline Analysis System method showed that the beach width increased west to the port, which was calculated by the Change Polygon Approach determined by intersecting and uniting polygons to estimate the difference between the areas over time. The short-time analysis results showed changing coastal morphology, demonstrating that the anthropic interventions in the region are transforming significantly the natural elements that make up the region landscape. Between 2011 and 2014, the investigated beach stretch of approximately 3 km suffered an accretion process of more than 102,000 m 2 over 3 years. The high spatial resolution of satellite images, digital processing imaging techniques and geostatistical methods were effective in this study, allowing understanding the recent changes in the area.

Uno de los principales problemas para una precisa georreferenciación y medición de distancias a partir de imágenes de satélite, especialmente en zonas geográficas con una gran dinámica morfológica y ambiental, reside no solamente en la dificultad para la identificación de puntos de control (GCPs, por su sigla en inglés), sino también en las limitaciones reales para el acceso a dichos lugares. En el presente trabajo se propone una metodología relativamente simple para la georreferenciación y la medición de distancias a partir de imágenes de satélite, basada en la utilización de imágenes de la reflectancia de la superficie previamente calculadas y luego orientadas hacia el norte (georreferenciación sistemática). A partir de estas imágenes y fijando un punto (píxel) de control básico P, medido con GPS, los demás GCPs se obtuvieron midiendo distancias definidas desde dicho punto P hasta puntos (píxeles) representativos sobre la imagen, seleccionados para la georreferenciación de ella. La validación estadística de los resultados obtenidos, utilizando una muestra diferente de GCPs medidos con GPS, muestra que la precisión de la georreferenciación y la medición de distancias utilizando la metodología desarrollada son similares a la obtenida por medios convencionales como la georreferenciación de imágenes por medio de datos de GPS.

In an ideal situation a healthy and stable coastal ecosystem is very supportive of traditional shore based small scale fisheries. This health in turn is maintained by the desirable linkages with the riverine systems that supply sediments and nutrients to the coasts. Kerala&#39;s unique geography maintained this linkage between the coast and the mountains with network of forty one west flowing rivers and the chain of backwaters with dynamic estuaries. However, this unique feature of Kerala&#39;s coast has undergone rapid changes in the recent past. Since the Third Five Year Plan(1961-1966), Government of Kerala emphasized creation of infrastructure facilities such as fishing harbours, fish landing centers, fisheries roads, fisheries dispensaries, guide lights, community resource centres, fisheries research institutes and schools for the coastal fishing communities 1 . Today it is estimated that currently 63 percent of its coastline is tampered with engineering structures such as sea-...

L'étude granulométrique des sables titanifères de l'estuaire de l'Oum Er-Rbia et du littoral d'Azemmour a permis de caractériser la dynamique sédimentaire de cette zone. La morphoscopie des quartz a révélé la prédominance des émoussés luisants , traduisant l'importance du remaniement marin. L'analyse minéralogique de la fraction lourde montre l'abondance de l'ilménite et de la magnétite sur le reste des minéraux. Ils se concentrent sur les plages au voisinage de l'embouchure de l'Oued l'Oum Er-Rbia. La répartition de l'ilménite montre une évolution croissante du rivage vers la plage aérienne. Les marées, les courants , les vagues et le vent sont les agents responsable de la concentration de ces minéraux.

Une thèse n'est pas une fin en soi certes, mais au moment de franchir ce cap, il m'est impossible de ne pas penser à tous ceux qui, de près ou de loin, auront contribué à ce grand effort. Si l'épreuve est individuelle, une thèse est un travail collectif où l'apport de chacun, bien que d'importance inégale, est toujours indispensable et précieux. Je remercie Philippe Dubuisson, Dub ! mon directeur de thèse, pour m'avoir aidé à prendre les bonnes décisions particulièrement à la fin, pour avoir toujours suivi mon travail malgré son changement de laboratoire et d'université. Merci à mes deux co-directeurs, Antoine Gardel et Sandric Lesourd, pour votre direction complice. Merci de m'avoir fait confiance en me laissant une grande liberté de travail tout en étant toujours très disponibles et de m'avoir poussée à constamment me surpasser. Merci Antoine pour m'avoir initiée aux joies de la télédétection, merci Sandric, pour la transmission du savoir du granulomètre, entre autres ! Merci pour les longues heures passées à relire (et réduire !) ce manuscrit et tant d'autres choses. Merci à vous deux. Mes remerciements vont également aux membres du jury qui m'ont fait l'honneur d'examiner et de juger ce travail merci à M.

Deep navigation channels have a great impact on adjacent beaches and crucial economic effects because of periodic dredging operations. The navigation channel of the Damietta harbour is considered a clear example of the sedimentation problem and deeply affects the Northeastern shoreline of the Nile Delta in Egypt. The aim of the present study is to monitor shoreline using remote sensing techniques to evaluate the effect of Damietta harbour and its navigation channel on the shoreline for the last 45 years. Also, the selected period was divided into two periods to illustrate the effect of man-made interventions on the shoreline. Shorelines were extracted from satellite images and then the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) was used to estimate accurate rates of shoreline changes and predict future shorelines evolution of 2030, 2040, 2050 and 2060. The Damietta harbour created an accretion area in the western side with an average rate of 2.13 m yr-1. On the contrary, the shoreline...

RESUME : Les rivages sableux ont retenu l’attention de façon particulière au cours des dernières décennies, notamment depuis les années 1980. L’attention était concentrée, d’abord, sur la question de leur érosion et leur protection. Aujourd’hui, plusieurs sont figés par différents ouvrages créés dans le cadre d’une défense lourde ou par des espaces plus ou moins étendus gagnés sur la mer par remblayage.
Ayant perdu le soutien que leur procurait leur avant-dune et/ou coupées de leur arrière-pays immédiat, certaines plages ont connu une concentration accrue de l’action des vagues et fini par perdre ce qui leur restait de leur substance sableuse naturelle. Une nouvelle conjoncture s’y est installée ; les vagues travaillent dans le matériel des ouvrages de protection et des remblayages précités. Les premières conséquences annoncent, tant que ces plages n’ont pas fait l’objet d’un travail de rechargement conséquent, un changement important dans la nature et la granulométrie de leur matériel devenu de plus en plus grossier, hétérogène et beaucoup moins attractif que le sable d’antan. Dans le front des remblayages, les coupes exhumées par les vagues révèlent parfois un matériel comportant souvent des substances nocives et pouvant être à l’origine de différentes formes de dégradation ainsi que des risques pour les baigneurs.
Si bien qu’après la concentration sur les problèmes de l’érosion ou parallèlement à elle, on aura à gérer, dans certains rivages anthropisés, de nouveaux problèmes.
Mots-clés : Tunisie, Maroc, plages, érosion, risques, environnement

NEW RISKS AND FORMS OF DEGRADATION IN THE BEACHES OF ANTHROPIZED COASTS (CASES IN TUNISIA AND MOROCCO)
ABSTRACT: Sandy shores have received particular attention in recent decades, particularly since the 1980s. Effort was often focused, first, on their erosion and their protection. Today, several are frozen by different structures created as part of a heavy defense or by more or less extensive spaces gained by backfilling works.
Having lost the support provided by their foredunes and/or cut off from their immediate hinterland, many beaches experienced an increased concentration of wave action and ended up losing what remained of their natural sandy substance. A new situation sets in; the waves work in the material of the aforementioned protective structures and backfilling works. The first consequences indicate, as long as the shores have not undergone significant sandy nourishment, a significant change in the nature and grain size. The material stirred by the waves is increasingly coarse, heterogeneous and much less attractive than the originel sand. In the front of the embankments, the waves reveal material often containing harmful substances which can cause different forms of degradation as well as risks for swimmers.
So that after focusing on the problems of erosion, or in parallel with it, we will have to manage new problems.
Keywords: Tunisia, Morocco, beaches, erosion, risks, environment

Alexandria city in Egypt is one of important cities in the Mediterranean coast. Alexandria suffers from many erosion problems along its coastline. The shore line of Alexandria beach was studied using remote senescing and field data. A case study of a submerged breakwater, which was constructed at Alexandria beach to stabilize the eroded beach of Miami-Montaza areas in years 2000 to 2016, is presented. The data of Alexandria beach were provided by Landsat7 satalite and proccseed by software program ERDAS IMAGINE 2013 which gives high resolution of the studied area. Then the shorelines were digitized by using software ARC GIS 10.1. This study introduce the shoreline response due to the construction of the submerged breakwater using the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS). The analysis shows shoreline accretion along most areas of Miamy-Asafra-Mandara-Montaza beach with range from 1 to 20 meter per year. The shoreline erosion exist at eastern part of Asafra beach and western part of Mandara beach with range from-1.5 to-10 meter per year. A beach width varied from 30 to 55 m compared to 0.0 to 25 m before the submerged breakwater. Shoreline change prediction model for coastal zone at Mimi to Montaza beach in years 2020, 2030, and 2050 is estimated according to DSAS settings and Linear regression rate. It was observed that during 2016-2050 the accretion distance along the coastline of Miami to montaza beach was varied between (5-60) m. Also the predicted shoreline indicates that the erosion will take place in the Montaza beach with distance varied between (20) m.

Terjadinya erosi dan abrasi yang mengakibatkan mundurnya garis pantai mengancam PLTMG yang ada di sekitar lokasi tersebut. Kerusakan pantai yang terjadi dapat menyebabkan kerugian yang sangat besar dengan rusaknya berbagai fasilitas salah satunya PLTMG ini yang sangat berguna untuk menambah pasokan energi khususnya di sektor industri. Garis pantai yang semakin tergerus karena gelombang air laut dapat menyebabkan kerusakan pada bangunan yang terletak pada pinggir pantai. Maka masalah yang terjadi seperti ini sangat mengganggu pengembangan dan kinerja PLTMG tersebut, sehingga untuk melindungi pantai terhadap kerusakan karena serangan gelombang dan arus maka dibuatlah bangunan pengaman pantai seperti (revetment, sea wall, jetty, groyne , rip rap) Hal-hal yang diperlukan dalam perencanaan yaitu ketersedian data primer dan data sekunder. Data - data sekunder tersebut antara lain : peta Bathymetri (peta kontur laut) lokasi studi, peta kepulauan dan topografi daerah lokasi studi, data angi...

Takisung merupakan kawasan pariwisata, pemukiman dan juga tambak bahkan sebagai kegiatan administratif pemerintahan. Beberapa usaha untuk menanggulangi erosi dan mundurnya garis pantai telah dilakukan oleh pihak-pihak terkait, diantaranya adalah dengan melakukan kegiatan pengisian pantai (beach fill) pada pantai Takisung. Tetapi pada kenyataannya pantai tersebut masih terjadi erosi dan terjadi mundurnya garis pantai di sekitar pantai pasir buatan. Penelitian dan identifikasi kerusakan secara rinci terhadap terjadinya fenomena alami tersebut diperlukan untuk menghindari meningkatnya tingkat kerusakan pantai yang lebih parah. Untuk menentukan urutan prioritas penanganan kerusakan daerah pantai perlu dilakukan pembobotan jenis-jenis kerusakan yang terjadi. Dari hasil analisa data dan perhitungan bobot kriteria kerusakan diperoleh bahwa terjadi perubahan bentuk garis pantai yang tidak maksimal sehingga bentuk yang ada tidak sesuai desain pantai pasir buatan yang direncanakan. Hal ini terjadi karena fungsi groin yang ada tidak maksimal dan terjadinya erosi pada pantai pasir buatan dan sekitarnya. Erosi pantai terjadi akibat tidak stabilnya suplay dan kehilangan sedimen sepanjang pantai Takisung.

The Soliman coast (Tunisia), is characterized by an intense anthropization associated to an active erosion and dune cord instabilities. A geophysical study using time-domain electromagnetic and geoelectrical methods was carried out to delineate the thickness of unconsolidated Quaternary dunes and to assess the degree of vulnerability of the coastal dune/substrate interface. The first results reveal a variability in the thickness of the dune and specific salinization pathways.

Un poema que busca hacer de la Laguna Ojo de Liebre, en Baja California Sur, un intercambiador de escalas, de órdenes de magnitud y de velocidades distintas de vida y movimiento (ballenas, piojos simbiontes, escarabajos, la fuerza del océano). Traducido del español al francés por Florence Malfatto.

Tanah timbul adalah salah satu fenomena yang diakibatkan oleh pengendapan sedimen. Keberadaan tanah timbul akan menyebabkan perubahan pola sirkulasi arus dimana akan menyebabkan perubahan kecepatan arus dan gelombang, sedimentasi maupun kedalaman. Perubahan sirkulasi arus menyebabkan efek yang berantai terhadap suatu ekosistem. Adapun tujuan dari penelitian ini adalah mengetahui pola pasang surut, karakteristik pola arus, dan transpor sedimen sebelum dan sesudah Pulau Puetri terbentuk. Hasil penelitian karakteristik pola arus perairan Pulau Puteri sebelum terbentuk saat surut terendah dengan kecepatan arus tertinggi berkisar antara 0,266 hingga 0,293 m/s dan pergerakan arus bergerak dari arah timur dan arah barat menuju utara pantai Cikiong. Pada saat pasang tertinggi, kecepatan arus tertinggi berkisar di antara 0,32 hingga 0,346 m/s dan pergerakan arus bergerak dari arah barat menuju timur pantai Cikiong. Karakteristik pola arus perairan Pulau Puteri setelah terbentuk saat surut te...

Coastal zones, important for human settlements and economies globally and particularly in Sri Lanka, are experiencing significant changes driven by natural and human-induced activities. This study investigated the shoreline changes over the southwestern coastal zone between for three periods as; 1988 to 2023, 1988 to 2001 and 2001 to 2023 by calculating the change rates, preparing erosion/accretion maps and predicting future positions for years 2034 and 2044.Landsat images and Normalized Difference Water Index (NDWI) were used for shoreline extraction and Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) tools was used to calculate change rates and predict future positions.. Findings reveal significant changes over the three study periods. During the 1988-2001 period, the mean Endpoint Rate (EPR) averaged 2.31 m/year, while the mean Linear Regression Rate (LRR) averaged 2.34 m/year. The majority of the study area faced land accretion, with only 200 out of 3,475 transects experiencing erosion. However, during the 2001-2023 period, erosion became predominant at an alarming rate of 62.72%, with 2,192 out of 3,495 transects facing erosion. During this period, the mean EPR and mean LRR shiftedto -0.46 m/year and -0.25 m/year, respectively. During the overall period of 1988-2023, only 404 transects out of 3,422 transects were eroded, with a decreased percentage of 11.81%. The mean EPR was 0.61 m/year, while the mean LRR was 0.52 m/year. Kalutara, Beruwala, Hikkaduwa, Kahawa, and Galle experienced significant erosion, aligning with previous vulnerability assessments. Predictions for 2034 and 2044 suggest a trend towards land accretion, potentially influenced by recent beach nourishment efforts. Even though the erosion rate decreased for the overall period 1988-2023, mitigation measures should be taken, especially for Kalutara, Beruwala, Hikkaduwa, Kahawa, and Galle areas.

The intertidal fauna of the Dakshina Kannada coast, Karnataka, India, are facing a threat due to several factors. In the present study, we delineate various changes in the selected intertidal habitats along the coastline of the Dakshina Kannada district, to correlate these changes with the diversity of molluscs in the intertidal zones. The study also aims at understanding the threat faced by molluscs due to various factors. This study was carried out from November 2016 to September 2017. Mapping of the coastline of Dakshina Kannada was done using topographical maps and Indian Remote Sensing Satellite imageries (IRS-Resourcesat 1-LISS-III). Satellite data were processed using ERDAS IMAGINE 9.1 software and various land-use/ land-cover classes were analysed using ArcGIS 10.1. The resulting coastal maps were used to estimate the geomorphological changes and shifting of the shoreline position due to erosion and accretion. Shoreline changes were correlated to diversity changes within intertidal mollusc communities. The study revealed the abundance of molluscs at the intertidal zone of Sasihithlu and species richness at Someshwar and Panambur during post-monsoon. Significant correlation was observed between water temperature and diversity of molluscs, indicating that water temperature is the important physico-chemical parameter responsible for the change in molluscan diversity of the Dakshina Kannada coast. The variation in land-use/land-cover during the study period was analysed. The coastline has been threatened by different land-use patterns such as urbanization, industrialization, developmental activities, erosion and accretion. The changes occurring along the coastline during this study due to industrialization and anthropogenic factors have been discussed, which help in the implementation of conservation measures and protect the sensitive habitats of the shelled organisms.

The study area which is part of the Saidia littoral consists of two parts: a fluvial portion between the bypass bridge and the mouth of the Moulouya river over a length of 5 km and littoral part between the Saidia Marina port and the port of marine fisheries of Cap de l’Eau. Sea (L1 to L25) withdrawals have been made according to the radial oriented perpendicularly to the shore line. The average distance between two radial is of approximately 1,2 Km and between two successive samples is about 800 m. sampling in the river ( F1 to F5) were made in the minor bed of Oued Moulouya with 550 metres spacing. Following this oceanographic campaign, the sedimentological characterization of samples is based on granulometric, mineralogical, morphoscopic and calcimetric tests. The granulometric study showed that these sediments consist essentially of moderately graded sands. As to the morphoscopy of quartz, revealed the prevailence of the NU type to the west of the estuary of Moulouya river resul...

This work shows that the erosion of the coastline in Farafangana is an important problem
that has worsened in recent decades, it represents an important threat to the city and its inhabitants.
Studies have shown that the coast line has fallen by more than 20 meters in some areas since 2000
and the erosion rate has accelerated in recent years, from about 7 meters in 2000 and 12 meters in
2023. This erosion is due to several factors, including sea-level rise, deforestation and urbanization.
There is a need for measures to protect against erosion and to preserve the natural beauty of this
region and ensure sustainable development. Then a development planning plan should take into
account the city's climatic, topographical, environmental and social factors.

Natural resources of off shore island of Bay of Bengal (BoB) have been used for multiple purposes and have strongly influenced socio-economic development. Conventional methods of collecting information about coastal area are relatively costly, time consuming and inaccurate. On the other hand Remote Sensing (RS) observation with its unique capability provides cost-effective support in compiling the latest information about the environment of coastal area, while Geographic Information System (GIS) facilitates uses for multidisciplinary analysis and decision support. Integrated analysis of RS and GIS can gives a vital input for better planning for exploration, exploitation, conservation and management of resources. In this study Sandwip Island of the BoB has been selected as study area. Landsat MSS (80 m) data of 1973, Landsat TM (30 m) data of 1989 and 2010 were used to generate digital data base of different time period, analysis of erosion and accretion and finally produced digital ...

This paper is a sequel to the previous contribution (Sekiguchi et al., 2004(Sekiguchi et al., , 2005) ) from the Research Center for Disaster Environment and represents an outcome obtained through Research Project 3: "Atmosphere-Hydrosphere Modeling for Water/Mass Movement in River Basins and Community-based Hazard Mapping" that has been progressing in the framework of the 21st Century DPRI-COE Program, Kyoto University. This manuscript describes some of the recent research results done at the attached observatories and laboratories or actual disaster fields on sediment yields in the mountain regions, riverbed evolution, characteristics of flood plains and its formation, and fluvial sedimentary features in flood-stricken areas. Moreover, temporal variation of observed longshore current velocity and the relationship between the current velocity and external forces (winds and waves) is discussed, especially under storm conditions. And also, the effects of Kuroshio warm current sea surface temperature on coastal wind and precipitation fields are simulated by meso-scale meteorological model MM5.In this paper, some of the recent developments are shown in modeling fluid-sediment interactions that may characterize sediment routine systems. Sediment yield in the valley influences the river environment in various forms such as turbidity and sediment movement in the watershed. It is very important in long-term valley sediment management to clarify the realities of such sediment yield in the watershed in the time series. Sediment yield is characterized by many regional factors such as geology, geomorphology, climate and vegetation. Sawada (2006; unpublished report) established a pilot study area, named Fukatani station, in the west flank of Mt.Yake in 1985 and has taken observations up to now. The test bare slope is 3 m by 10 m in plan and is underlain by

The reconstruction of the human impacts on the morphodynamics of river deltas in the long term is challenging. The ternary diagram of Galloway (1975) used to classify morphodynamics of deltas does not include direct human influence which is now affecting most of the deltas of the world. The study of human-dominated deltas requires specific approaches and consideration of human processes and morphologies in interaction with more commonly studied natural processes and morphologies. This study demonstrates how to combine different datasets from natural and social sciences to reconstruct long term temporal trajectories of hybrid urban deltas. The Francolí delta, associated with the UNESCO city of Tarragona, offers a perfect case study to identify the different steps of a wave-dominated delta leading to a human-dominated delta over a long-term perspective. Tarragona emerged in the 1st millennium BCE and became a significant port city in the Roman period. This study identifies the evidence of a semi-protected harbour built 2000 years ago that initiates the evolution of a hybrid urban delta towards a human-dominated delta. Until the end 19th c. CE, cyclical changes at the river mouth are observed due to natural fluvial and coastal dynamics while progradation stages are partly affected by anthropogenic structures over time. The 19th c. CE is a major turning point. Morphodynamics controlled by anthropogenic factors strongly increase while fluvial and coastal sedimentation is partly erased by dredgings. The systematic approach proposed for the Francolí delta can be standardised and applied to other hybrid urban deltas allowing better comparison between urbanised deltas.

The coastal stretch from Veli to Varkala along Thiruvananthapuram coast, which was in dynamic equilibrium, has two identifiable sediment cells separated by the Muthalapozhi inlet with harbour breakwaters on either side of the inlet. Construction of breakwaters to develop a fishing harbour at Muthalapozhi has caused erosion immediately north of the inlet and beach build up south of the inlet. In addition, the harbour mouth gets blocked due to deposition of sand, virtually making the harbour unusable. In the present study, the processes of shoreline morphological changes along the high energy coast are analyzed using numerical models to propose management options to tackle morphological modifications. Shoreline changes, nearshore processes and beach characteristics along this sector are studied through extensive field observations. The data is used to calibrate and validate sediment transport and shoreline change models for this coast. Sediment transport and shoreline changes are simulated using different modules of LITPACK model. The LITDRIFT module is used to calculate annual sediment transport. The LITLINE module is used for shoreline evolution during fair season and the behaviour of coast during monsoon is simulated using the module LITPROF. The calibration of the model is done with field observations. It is found that beach sediments get deposited on southern side of the breakwater and bypassed sediment gets deposited at the inlet mouth. The model after validation is used to simulate the processes with different designs and a groin field of smaller transitional lengths comparable with the surf zone width. The groins having lengths 40, 30 and 20 m at 120, 220 and 300 m south of breakwater, has been found best suited to control the chocking of harbour mouth due to sediment deposition during beach building period.

Proyecto académico sin fines de lucro, desarrollado bajo la iniciativa de acceso abierto High resolution records (12 kHz) of the area show highly dynamical and unstable environments affected during the late Holocene by mud diapirism, active faulting and depositional events (up to 5m thick) that filled ancient channels and small basins.

Abstract: The coastal zone has been receiving the tremendous attention of the geoscientific community worldwide, as 70 percent of global population, over two-third of world’s mega cities, huge industrial complexes, major economic zones, etc., are concentrated along the global coast. Developing and most populated country like India changes along the shoreline and coastal environment due to the coastal process are the direct impact coastal economic development and land management (Welch et al. 1992; Stokkom et al. 1993). Hence, the present study has focused on studying the shoreline modification of 43 years of periods between 1972 and 2015. For attempting of this unique freely available software Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) is used which works within the Environmental Systems Research Institute (ESRI) Geographic Information System (ArcGIS) software (Ref). The rate of shoreline change statistics for 43 years of duration between 1972 to 2015 has been calculated using LRR mod...

Macrofossil and geoarchaeological data from a variety of contexts and periods at Vik can provide either in situ or proxy information on the human – environment interactions at the site through time. The aim of this paper is to discuss settlement activity patterns through time and space, with special emphasis on agriculture and animal husbandry strategies. The calcareous shell bank deposits at the site led to a reduction of the amount of analysed citric soluble phosphate and are apparently also linked to very poor macrofossil preservation. The analysis shows that farming in the pre-Roman Iron Age involved animal management and manuring of fields where naked and hulled barley were cultivated. Stock was kept in the long houses. There are also indications that animals grazed along the shore. In the Roman Iron Age there is no clear evidence of keeping livestock indoors; byre residues were instead found in house-associated waste heaps, where chemical data indicate that dung was left to fe...

Terjadinya erosi dan abrasi yang mengakibatkan mundurnya garis pantai mengancam PLTMG yang ada di sekitar lokasi tersebut. Kerusakan pantai yang terjadi dapat menyebabkan kerugian yang sangat besar dengan rusaknya berbagai fasilitas salah satunya PLTMG ini yang sangat berguna untuk menambah pasokan energi khususnya di sektor industri. Garis pantai yang semakin tergerus karena gelombang air laut dapat menyebabkan kerusakan pada bangunan yang terletak pada pinggir pantai. Maka masalah yang terjadi seperti ini sangat mengganggu pengembangan dan kinerja PLTMG tersebut, sehingga untuk melindungi pantai terhadap kerusakan karena serangan gelombang dan arus maka dibuatlah bangunan pengaman pantai seperti (revetment, sea wall, jetty, groyne , rip rap) Hal-hal yang diperlukan dalam perencanaan yaitu ketersedian data primer dan data sekunder. Data - data sekunder tersebut antara lain : peta Bathymetri (peta kontur laut) lokasi studi, peta kepulauan dan topografi daerah lokasi studi, data angi...

Terjadinya erosi dan abrasi yang mengakibatkan mundurnya garis pantai mengancam PLTMG yang ada di sekitar lokasi tersebut. Kerusakan pantai yang terjadi dapat menyebabkan kerugian yang sangat besar dengan rusaknya berbagai fasilitas salah satunya PLTMG ini yang sangat berguna untuk menambah pasokan energi khususnya di sektor industri. Garis pantai yang semakin tergerus karena gelombang air laut dapat menyebabkan kerusakan pada bangunan yang terletak pada pinggir pantai. Maka masalah yang terjadi seperti ini sangat mengganggu pengembangan dan kinerja PLTMG tersebut, sehingga untuk melindungi pantai terhadap kerusakan karena serangan gelombang dan arus maka dibuatlah bangunan pengaman pantai seperti (revetment, sea wall, jetty, groyne, rip rap) Hal-hal yang diperlukan dalam perencanaan yaitu ketersedian data primer dan data sekunder. Data-data sekunder tersebut antara lain : peta Bathymetri (peta kontur laut) lokasi studi, peta kepulauan dan topografi daerah lokasi studi, data angin, data pasang surut dari muka air, data mekanika tanah. Kemudian data tersebut di analisa untuk mendapatkan gelombang rencana, gelombang pecah, dimensi bangunan. Berdasarkan hasil analisa Tugas akhir ini didapatkan perencanaan bangunan pengaman pantai yang digunakan adalah Revetment jenis Riprap dengan tinggi 6,35 meter, lebar puncak 3,11 meter, panjang bangunan 15,85 meter, kemiringan 1 : 2, dan fungsi bangunan untuk mencegah mundurnya garis pantai dan mencegah erosi.