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Beach zone evolution

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lightbulbAbout this topic
Beach zone evolution refers to the dynamic processes and changes occurring in coastal beach environments over time, influenced by factors such as sediment transport, wave action, sea level rise, and human activities. This field of study examines the morphological, ecological, and geological transformations of beach systems.
lightbulbAbout this topic
Beach zone evolution refers to the dynamic processes and changes occurring in coastal beach environments over time, influenced by factors such as sediment transport, wave action, sea level rise, and human activities. This field of study examines the morphological, ecological, and geological transformations of beach systems.

Key research themes

1. How does anthropogenic intervention influence the morphodynamics and resilience of beach zones?

This theme investigates the multifaceted impact of human activities such as coastal development, hard and soft engineering, and urbanization on beach morphology, sediment dynamics, and coastal resilience. It is critical because human interventions can alter natural sediment transport and morphodynamics, potentially exacerbating erosion and reducing beach ecosystem functionality, thereby posing challenges to sustainable coastal management.

Key finding: This study constructed a comprehensive geodatabase of anthropogenic interventions over a century in the Northern Tuscany littoral cell, revealing that hard structures like ports and breakwaters fixed shoreline positions but... Read more
Key finding: This longitudinal study documents that urbanization led to a 2532% increase in built-up area around Marineta Cassiana beach over 65 years, causing sediment grain size changes and altered beach profiles. It found that... Read more
Key finding: By integrating beach-dune morphometric data with hydrodynamic modeling over a 5-year period, this paper identifies that coastal structures interrupt littoral drift, diminishing beach resilience and enhancing vulnerability to... Read more
Key finding: The comparative analysis of macrofaunal communities in highly urbanized beaches with breakwater structures versus Marine Protected Areas revealed that anthropogenic pressures disrupt benthic biodiversity and trophic... Read more
Key finding: Through an interdisciplinary approach combining geomorphology, sedimentology, and hydrodynamics, this study documents how urbanization, industrial activities, and associated modifications to sediment supply in the Gulf of... Read more

2. What are the morphodynamic processes governing beach and nearshore evolution under natural and modified conditions?

This research area focuses on understanding the fundamental physical processes controlling the morphological evolution of beaches, including sediment transport, wave dynamics, shoreline changes, and response to episodic storms. It combines experimental, numerical, and observational approaches to elucidate how natural forcing and engineering interventions modify these processes, informing predictions of beach profile changes and guiding effective coastal management.

Key finding: Laboratory flume experiments under varying irregular wave conditions demonstrated that artificial submerged sand bars (ASB) and reefs (AR) distinctly influence cross-shore wave parameters and sediment transport patterns. The... Read more
Key finding: Through controlled 3D laboratory experiments isolating berm height, grain size, and wave parameters, this study quantified beach nourishment longevity and volume loss rates. It found beachfill half-life inversely correlated... Read more
Key finding: Topographic surveys over 4.5 years at a nourished microtidal beach showed that berm height design induced beach scarp formation, which migrated landward influenced by tidal variations. Storm events rapidly removed scarps,... Read more
Key finding: Decadal profile monitoring of two adjacent embayed beaches with contrasting physical characteristics revealed strong correlations between beach level changes and environmental forcings such as NAO index, swell wave period,... Read more
Key finding: Precision topographic monitoring following storm events demonstrated differential morphological responses among three pebble beaches with varying levels of protection and breakwater presence. Storm berm retreat ranged between... Read more

3. How can integrated modeling and new computational approaches improve predictions of beach–dune system evolution under combined aeolian, hydrodynamic, and ecological processes?

This theme focuses on advancing computational models, including cellular automata frameworks, to simulate the complex interactions between wind-driven sediment transport, hydrodynamics, and vegetation dynamics controlling beach-dune morphological evolution. Such integrated approaches are vital for forecasting system responses to environmental forcing, supporting adaptive management, and understanding feedback mechanisms underpinning coastal resilience.

Key finding: The study presents a novel enhancement of the DuBeVeg cellular automata model by incorporating a saltation-based aeolian sediment transport representation instead of ripple migration. Simulations over 50 years under varying... Read more
Key finding: In addition to its anthropogenic impact assessment, this study utilized a multidisciplinary approach combining in situ surveys, remote sensing, and morphodynamic modeling to elucidate and predict shoreline changes over... Read more
Key finding: This paper emphasizes the need for basic and applied ecological research on sandy beach systems as coupled natural-social systems and endorses experimental management interventions (e.g., beach nourishment) combined with... Read more

All papers in Beach zone evolution

Coastal lagoons and dunes are of great ecological importance, not only for providing habitats for rare flora and fauna, but also for protecting coastal areas from rising sea levels and storms, etc. Even though these features are unique... more
This contribution presents the results of a study on the shoreline variability of a natural perched urban beach (Ammoudara, N. Crete, Greece). Shoreline variability was monitored in high spatio-temporal resolution using time series of... more
The aim of the present study is to investigate the morphodynamic regime of the coastal area of Xylokastro (north coast of Peloponnese), in order to identify and evaluate the processes controlling its formation and evolution. Within this... more
Coastal lagoons and dunes are of great ecological importance, not only for providing habitats for rare flora and fauna, but also for protecting coastal areas from rising sea levels and storms, etc. Even though these features are unique... more
Erosion is a major threat for coasts worldwide, beaches in particular, which constitute one of the most valuable coastal landforms. Vulnerability assessments related to beach erosion may contribute to planning measures to counteract... more
The 7 kilometers long coastline of Marathon Gulf (East Attica, Greece), has been chosen for this study, in order to classify its coastal erosion, using the Coastal Vulnerability Index (CVI) through GIS technology, since several incidents... more
The present study investigates recent and future evolution of the beach zone of Almiros Bay, one of the most touristic developed beaches of north Crete, in relation to its morphodynamic setting and the anticipated sea level rise. The... more
The 7 kilometers long coastline of Marathon Gulf (East Attica, Greece), has been chosen for this study, in order to classify its coastal erosion, using the Coastal Vulnerability Index (CVI) through GIS technology, since several incidents... more
The coastal zone is a transitory zone between land and sea. Due to its importance to man, not only for its high food production but also for recreation, sea transportation and industrial activities, coastal zone receives high... more
In the current paper are presented the results of a multidisciplinary study (stratigraphical, sedimentological, geophysical and geochemical) combined with modern techniques (G.I.S. and remote seming). This study aims at integrating the... more
The aim of the present study is to investigate the morphodynamic regime of the coastal area of Xylokastro (north coast of Peloponnese), in order to identify and evaluate the processes controlling its formation and evolution. Within this... more
In the current paper are presented the results of a multidisciplinary study (stratigraphical, sedimentological, geophysical and geochemical) combined with modern techniques (G.I.S. and remote seming). This study aims at integrating the... more
The present study investigates recent and future evolution of the beach zone of Almiros Bay, one of the most touristic developed beaches of north Crete, in relation to its morphodynamic setting and the anticipated sea level rise. The... more
A hydrogeological study took place in the broader area of Mesologgi – Aitoliko lagoons (West Greece) aiming at the investigation of a) the hydrogeological conditions of the area as well as the surface and groundwater influences on the... more
by A. Komi and 
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This study focuses on the sedimentological and morphological features of Vravrona Beach, East Attica, in order to determine the seasonal changes in the textural group classification of the costal sediments, as well as, changes in... more
The study area of Vigla coastal zone is located at the W coast of Naxos, the largest island of Cycladic plateau. The study of sea-land interactions during Holocene in relation to the eustatic sea level oscillations as well as the... more
This study focuses on the phenomenon of erosion regarding the coastal dune system in Naxos island (Cyclades), Greece. In the western coastal zone of Naxos, several dune fields are observed. Despite the fact that erosion on the inland has... more
The flat terrestrial part of the coastal zone of the Paros Island (slope <2,5% for elevations 0-50 m), represents only the 19% of the total area of the island (193 km 2 ). More than 75% of the coastal zone consists of high and lower... more
The relief of the island of Samos is characterized by the Kerketeas mountain in the western part and the Karvouni mountain in the central part. The Geology of Samos consists of a metamorphic substratum, a non metamorphic unit, neogene and... more
The 7 kilometers long coastline of Marathon Gulf (East Attica, Greece), has been chosen for this study, in order to classify its coastal erosion, using the Coastal Vulnerability Index (CVI) through GIS technology, since several incidents... more
Greek coastline that accounts more than 16.000 km hosts hundreds of beaches, which constitute a great touristic destination. However, no gathered information exists relative to its qualitative and quantitative characteristics (e.g.... more
The present investigation introduces the development of a beach inventory, which will record, gather and depict information for beaches in an accurate way. The information, coming up from satellite images and ground-truthing with on-site... more
The nearshore wave and current conditions and the resulting nearshore circulation were measured with five wave recorders, on electromagnetic current meter, two ADVs and one ADCP, during a 6-day field experiment at the reef-protected... more
The study area of Vigla coastal zone is located at the W coast of Naxos, the largest island of Cycladic plateau. The study of sea-land interactions during Holocene in relation to the eustatic sea level oscillations as well as the... more
Beaches are both sensitive and critical components of the coastal systems, as they are particularly vulnerable to environmental change (e.g., the sea level rise) and form valuable coastal ecosystems and economic resources. The objective... more
This research concerns the evaluation of the depositional environment in Kifissos river, in N. faliro area (Greece). In order to retrieve the depositional history ten sampling boreholes (P1-P10) are made in the area of Piraeus-N. Faliro... more
Electrical resistivity tomography (ERT) technique is widely used in mapping subsurface electrical properties. In this study, ERT was used to map a beachrock outcrop, extended both inland, under beach sediments, and seawards, on and under... more
Erosion is a major threat for coasts worldwide, beaches in particular, which constitute one of the most valuable coastal landforms. Vulnerability assessments related to beach erosion may contribute to planning measures to counteract... more
The aim of this paper is to examine the spatio-temporal, qualitative and quantitative changes in the natural environment and morphology of the coastal area of Vari, a suburb of Athens, Greece. The changes were studied using maps, aerial... more
Being highly dynamic by nature, due to their changing hydrological regime and to the encroachment of urbanization, industrialization and changing patterns in agriculture, reliable and timely information of coastal areas is a prerequisite... more
Beaches are both sensitive and critical components of the coastal systems, as they are particularly vulnerable to environmental change (e.g., the sea level rise) and form valuable coastal ecosystems and economic resources. The objective... more
The present study investigates recent and future evolution of the beach zone of Almiros Bay, one of the most touristic developed beaches of north Crete, in relation to its morphodynamic setting and the anticipated sea level rise. The... more
The geomorphological processes, which take place on the coastal zone, are influenced by a number of environmental factors, such as lithology, climate, biota, and oceanography. The present study investigated the causes of erosion taking... more
The shallow bay of St. Georgios is situated in the northwestern part of the Naxos Island and it is characterized by a 2.7 km long sandy coast consisting of fine-grained (sandy) material. Sand dunes are the landward limit of the beach... more
KOUTSOMICHOU I., POULOS S., EVELPIDOU N., ANAGNOSTOU CH., GHIONIS G. & VASSILOPOULOS A., The role of beachrock formations in the evolution of embayed coastal zones of Attica (Greece) in relation to sea level rise. The case of Kalyvia... more
Erosion is a major threat for coasts worldwide, beaches in particular, which constitute one of the most valuable coastal landforms. Vulnerability assessments related to beach erosion may contribute to planning measures to counteract... more
Electrical resistivity tomography (ERT) technique is widely used in mapping subsurface electrical properties. In this study, ERT was used to map a beachrock outcrop, extended both inland, under beach sediments, and seawards, on and under... more
The study area of Vigla coastal zone is located at the W coast of Naxos, the largest island of Cycladic plateau. The study of sea-land interactions during Holocene in relation to the eustatic sea level oscillations as well as the... more
ABsrRAct: Koursor'ltcl-tou I., Pot;t.os S., Everprnou N., Arrrcxosrou Cn., Gruoxts G. & VASSII-oPout-os A., The rola of beochtock fonnotions in thc euoltrtion of embal,sd coastol zones of Attica (Grcecc) in relotion to sen lcucl ise. Tlte... more
The beach vulnerability Index (BVI) that is presented in this study is dedicated to the assessment of vulnerability to erosion in the case of beach zones developed in microtidal environment, experiencing significant nearshore... more
The morphological characteristics of a coastal reef that is observed along the Ammoudara beach (6 km to the west of the city of Heraklion, Crete) are investigated in relation to the sedimentology and modern evolution of the adjacent beach... more
The beach vulnerability Index (BVI) that is presented in this study is dedicated to the assessment of vulnerability to erosion in the case of beach zones developed in microtidal environment, experiencing significant nearshore... more
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